This is Jerel. The latest version of the gold process is listed below. I ask that you not share this with anyone until you have done all steps successfully and understand the process well enough to be able to conjoin gold and silver. Sharing this information with others before you understand it will be doing all a disservice and will not help anyone. Support is required and if you cannot provide it, others may loose their chance to understand.

If you have any questions about the process, ask me directly. I will get back to you as soon as I can, but be aware that I'm sometimes out of town for a week or two and I may forget to tell you.

****

I used 0.999+ gold beads to make my own electrodes. I fused the beads together with a MAPP torch and hammered these down to approx. 1/8 in. diameter. I left a bead on the end of each electrode to provide a uniform surface for the reaction. I have worked with 250 ml beakers as my reaction vessels, so I made my electrodes about 4 in long. In retrospect, they should actually be a little longer than the beaker's height, so I plan to add another inch to mine. I attached the electrodes to 8 ga. copper wire and then attach the copper to my batteries. If you plan to do any weighing of your electrodes to see how much gold is going into your products, you should use a stainless clip to attach the electrodes. I soldered mine with 18K gold solder.

Regarding the power, I am currently using seven 6-volt lantern batteries for a total of 42 volts. I have also used 48 volts. The minimum to produce diatoms seems to be about 34 volts, but seed are needed to make the low voltage work.

You will use both dilute KNO3 and dilute NaCl in separate reactions as is discussed below. You will also need 3% H2O2 that is stabilized with phosphoric acid. All solutions are very dilute. You need two beakers for reactors and two more for storage that are 2x the size of the reactors. You also need lots of good quality distilled water. The reaction evolves in several stages. A summary follows.

Stage 1 - Forming Seed

1. In the first 250 ml beaker, pour 180 ml distilled water, add 15 mg KNO3, stir, and heat to 100 F.

2. In the second 250 ml beaker, pour 180 ml distilled water, add 15 mg NaCl, stir, and heat to 100 F.

3. Place the gold electrodes into the KNO3 solution and pass current through the solution for about 10 min. At the end of this time you should have a thin coating of a purple material on the anode. If you have no coating continue with the first solution until you can see the coating. Try to make this coating as thin as you can. If you can get the coating in less than 10 min., go with the shorter time.

4. Place the electrodes in the NaCl solution for about 15 min. At the end of this time, the purple coating should be gone and the anode should be shiny gold. If the coating has not dissolved, continue reacting in the NaCl until it is gone.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 about 7 times to get a sufficient level of the material dissolved in the NaCl. On the seventh time, at about 10 min into that step, add 1.0 ml of 3% H2O2 and continue reacting for about 20 min.

6. At the end of step 5 remove the electrodes. You Should have a red or pink liquid. Darken the room and shine a flashlight beam through it. The reflected light should be yellow-green to orange. This is the citrine gold referred to in Artephius. You may consume this material at 20 - 50 ml per day, but you will find it very bitter. I age mine about 3 days in the two larger beakers I mentioned in order to remove as much H2O2 as possible. If aged long enough, the material will become sweet. The sweet material seems to have the best properties for direct consumption, but bitter is best for conjoining.

Stage 2 - Propagating The Seed

1. Always leave about 20 ml. to the last batch in the NaCl beaker. To this, add 140 ml of distilled water and 15 mg of NaCl. Warm this to 100 F.

2. Put the electrodes into the KNO3 beaker and react for a few minutes to collect the coating.

3. Transfer the electrodes to the NaCl beaker and react 5 min. At 5 min. add 20 ml from the KNO3 beaker and stir well. Then react another 5 min. After the second 5 min., add 1 ml H2O2 and react another 10 min. At the end of this time, you should have another batch of red material with a citrine suspension in it.

4. Refill the KNO3 beaker and add another 5 mg of KNO3 to it.

Continue steps 1-4 to make red gold as needed. I add the new batch to old material in the holding beakers to age and get sweet unless I plan to conjoin the material, in which case it should be bitter.

I would recommend going slowly with the amount of material taken. You need to develop a feel for what effects it has on you. After ingestion, I recommend meditation to study how the material interacts with your system.

There are several effects which you may or may not encounter, but which you should be aware of.

1. Irregularities in the heart beat, such as skipped beats. You should determine if your heart already skips before taking the material to know if this effect occurs.

2. Increases in clarity and interactively of dreams. A dream log can be a useful tool here.

3. Ringing sounds, chirping, or humming that may seem to come from outside the head.

4. Large increases in body heat in the hands and head. Be particularly careful with this one. Too much heat in the head can cause damage. So far, this has not been much of a problem for anyone but me. If you get this increase in heat, you must understand how energy flows in your body to dissipate it. I am not able to dissipate the heat fast enough sometimes, and I have had to resort to immersing my whole body in cold water. Some heat is good for regeneration, so do not overreact to it. Just be aware of it.

 Take care and keep me informed of your progress.

Jerel

On February 9, 1997 I received an email message, from a chemical engineer with whom I had been corresponding for some time, which spoke of an electrochemical method of creating David Hudson's materials from metallic elements. When I inquired for more information I got back an email message which included the following paragraph:

I don't mind if you share the information. I thought I had already mentioned what I have been doing. I have made pure gold electrodes and I use these to electrolyze a weak potassium nitrate solution. This apparently yields monatomic gold nitrate directly without all of David Hudson's steps. This material collects on one electrode as a purple, extremely fine material. I then move the coated electrode to a weak NaCl solution and repeat the process. This yields monatomic gold chloride which I have been taking in small doses. It produces exceptionally vivid dreams which are sometimes prophetic and often have important messages. These dreams have been guiding me...

I was corresponding with a number of other people at this time on this same subject and for some reason I decided to pass this information on to one of these other people. He expressed an interest in duplicating the chemical engineer's experiments and I put them in contact with each other.

The following is an email dialogue that has taken place over a period of a couple of months between the chemical engineer and the other gentleman. Since these excerpts are taken from the email messages sent by the chemical engineer, his comments are in normal text and the other gentleman's comments are preceded by a >.

This first message is dated 2/15/97

>I read with great interest your statement regarding
>the production of AuCl utilizing Au electrodes and a weak potassium
>nitrate solution.... I seem to remember playing around with
>electroplating when I was a kid, and this sounded similar. Being
>cautious, I decided not to go on with any experimentation unless I had a
>more detailed (step-by-step) account of the process as well as any
>disclaimers and safety considerations (lab procedure) to follow. I would
>consider it a great honor if you might share this information with me.

Sorry I have taken so long to respond. I wanted to give this some thought because I had never actually considered how to go about passing on what I've learned. I hope that several people will be involved in this effort eventually, but at the present I haven't gotten far enough along that I can actually produce the same white gold powder that David Hudson has isolated so I don't feel the process is yet complete. However, I am producing "monatomic" gold chloride that is now "teaching" me through my interactions with it, so this is much closer than I was a year ago.

I do think I could use some input from someone else working on this, so let's see if I can get you started and maybe you can help me work out what I need to do next. So assuming you will decide to do this, welcome to the project! There is yet much to do.

This involves a branch of chemistry called electrochemistry. Many reactions are possible by this method because you can transfer electrons directly to the reactants overcoming many of the activation energy problems required by other methods. I chose this approach because it will be very easy to automate after I get all the steps down and this will make the material more available. It also starts with pure gold so I know that's what is in the product.

>I will keep the process to myself unless you give me specific permission
>to share it at any time in the future. I would also be willing to keep
>track (log) any interesting results from the use of the AuCl I would
>encounter. I agree with the comment that it may not be prudent to make a
>WWW posting of the process at this time.... The results of select
>individual's usage would be a better way of seeding validity in the
>material, in the same manner that 'For the record' which was posted in
>the WhiteGoldForum has. Those who gravitate towards these processes will
>make great efforts to find out more... this will be evident to others in
>the know. So much for my opinion on this matter.

Yes, I would like to get additional data on how other people respond to this material before I do anything else with it. If you have experiences with it that are similar to my own, then I will have established reproducibility, which is something I'd like to add to this work.

Getting down to business, you mentioned that you had some background in physics. Do you also have some chemistry to work with? I would like you to be able to visualize what we are doing in this approach because I feel the visualization improves my results. There really does seem to be some mental imaging required to get results and it would be useful if you have a good idea of what orbitals are and what they are thought to look like so we can build on that as we go. If you don't have much background in this I will try to get some information to you so you will know what I'm referring to when I say we are now filling the 5d1 orbital. I can probably fax you a summary if you don't have this in your head, but I'll need a fax number. I could also print this out and mail it to you if you'll give me an address.

It would also be helpful if you could read Gary's article called "Paranormal Observations of ORMEs Atomic Structure" from the http://www.geocities.com/~whitegoldweb/libframe.htm web page, because I found it very important to understand that this material in not monatomic as David Hudson has proposed. It is actually diatomic and there are a number of partially formed stages of it that you will be making a lot of in the electrochemical approach.

Gary posted this information a few months ago and as far as I know, he is the first to actually understand the structure of these materials as well as explain why they behave as they do. Let me know if you have trouble finding these posts as I believe I can get the dates for you.

In addition to the background, you will need some basic materials and a place to work. You will need an area about 2 ft. x 3 ft. where you can leave your equipment set up because you will need to work with it over long periods. You will need the following materials:

1. 4 penny weights (dwt) of 24 K (99.99%) gold casting grain. The cost of this varies with the market price of gold, but the last I bought was about $23 per dwt.

2. An oxypropane torch, which you can get at most hardware stores.

3. A polished hammer and anvil to work the metal with (you have to work the grain into electrodes).

4. Two or three 250 ml Pyrex beakers (you should have chemical or biological supplies somewhere in your area).

5. Three or four ounces of potassium nitrate.

6. A gallon of distilled water (use distilled not deionized).

7. Eight 6 volt lantern batteries.

I believe these are all you will need to get started. I'm suggesting at this point that you make your own electrodes as this teaches you a lot about pure metallic gold, however, I can probably make these for you if you reimburse me for materials. It is a bit much to buy a torch, hammer, and anvil that you will probably only use once a year or so. I already have all this stuff because jewelry is one of my hobbies.

I liked your idea about the chain, but they don't normally make 24 K chain and anything else will put all kinds of metal hydroxides into your working solutions and this is very bad. If you know that you can get pure gold chain, we can start with that, but I don't know how that will work because I haven't tried it.

This is all probably quite a bit more than you thought it would be, so give it some thought and get back to me. If you want to proceed, I'll give you sources for the metal and tools or will arrange to make them for you. I hope you will feel this is within your reach as I could use some independent input and I think the work will teach you a lot.

NEW MESSAGE 2/20/97

>I have read the 3 dissertations by Gary and I do understand them very
>well, I was really surprised at how well I accepted them, I have made
>several drawings of the configurations in order to cement the concept in
>place. The things that Gary mentions helps put a lot of question to rest
>I had with David Hudson.

Yes, Gary helped me a lot too. The main thing I wanted you to understand is that these compounds are not monoatomic as David Hudson has insisted. Once you realize they are diatomic, it is much easier to understand how they work. I spent several months trying to work with a monatomic model and just could not make it fit with all my other data. Most of what I have learned in the last 48 years is good stuff that works for me every day, so I could not just throw it all out as has been suggested.

>I have downloaded a copy of In Pursuit of Gold which Binga informed me
>was on the ftpserver. I have placed it in MS Word and formatted it for
>readability. Not wanting to stop there, I have done a world search for a
>hardcopy of the material and I was fortunate enough to locate 2 copies of
>mint condition first editions (I only bought one of them). I have read
>this thrice with great understanding, although as I do not have a
>chemistry background (ie lots of lab work), the configurations of the
>labware leave me a bit confused.... But I do feel good about being able
>to follow the process to a successful completion

You don't need a lot of lab work to work with the stuff I'm using. You only need to remember to keep things clean and don't mix the wrong things, as you will get bad results.

>I am glad you like the idea of the gold chain. I wanted to maximize the
>surface area while maintaining a low profile. My wife is from
>Vietnam where she worked many years as a jeweler (goldsmith) and she is
>very well versed in the identification and manipulation of 99.999% gold.
>Although the chain I have is marked 99.999, she said there are still
>impurities in it and there is a better grade we can get from the Asian
>gold store if we need to in order to make the electrodes. If you would
>feel better making the electrodes, I will agree with that just so we can
>say we followed the same procedure (no extra variables). I found a
>source for potassium nitrate, 1 pound costs $17.50 + a $15.00 hazardous
>material charge + $6.50 shipping... can we do better? And what about the
>batteries? Can we use a well filtered DC source instead (say 30 amps
>@12V)?

Let's try the chain. 99.99% is good enough as far as I know. Indications so far are that you may want a few impurities. I'm a little concerned that the chain will stop reacting after you get product on it as it will not conduct, but let's give it a try and see how far we get.

You should be able to find 4 oz. bottles of potassium nitrate at an older drug store. These are only $3-4 and should last at least several months. You will only be using a few 1/100th gram at a time and a pound would last you about 100 years (unless you want to learn fireworks on the side). I'll look around up here and see if I can find some smaller amounts. A pound is far more than you need for now.

See if you can get a couple of 250 ml beakers, a few feet of 12 ga. copper wire, and two 4 in long pieces of the gold chain and we can go ahead with putting the electrodes together.

Since your wife knows gold smithing, this will be a lot easier. It would be better if she could hammer out a couple of 4 in pieces of gold wire for you as these will not have the loss of conductivity I expect to see in the chain. She might even be able to get wire already drawn. See if she can.

You will also need to be able to solder the electrodes to copper leads with gold solder or silver solder to make sure there is solid contact. Your wife will know how to do this too.

As to the power supply, I don't know about rectified AC as I have not tried it. You will need 48-60 v. DC as lower voltages are too slow. I've been using 6 v. lantern batteries that run about $3 each. I buy 8 at a time and clip them together to get 48 volts. This is where you will need the 12 gauge wire. If you have a 48 v, 30 amp power supply, we can try this if you want. You would need to fuse the electrode side at about 5 amps to prevent excessive arcing and you may have some problems with welding your electrodes together. I work with mine as close to touching as possible to maximize the energy available.

Let me know when you have electrode material, beakers, distilled water, wire and batteries gathered up and we can put together the electrodes and practice with dilute salts. Or if you also have the KNO3, we can start with that.

I think the chakras are a good way to visualize what is happening in my experience so far. Apparently each of these seven major points can be stimulated by a different valence-coupled diatomic (I don't like to call these ORMEs because the implication of "monatomic" is incorrect and misled me for a long time). I think gold stimulates the crown chakra and makes you much more sensitive to all that is spiritual, but the lower chakras must be developed enough to carry the increased load or you will create an imbalance and this happened to me. With additional testing, it appears that platinum diatomic stimulates the forehead chakra, and iridium stimulates the throat chakra. I think copper, silver, palladium and rhodium are the remaining four, but I haven't worked with these yet. I would be interested in discussing this correlation with your group, if they are interested. Do you think they might be?

>If there is anything more I can add, please let me know, we do have a
>vast pool of knowledge and expertise at our disposal, OK?

I know you have a lot of knowledge and I want to work with you. One thing I would like to know more about are any potential toxic effects of diatomic gold, platinum, and iridium chlorides. I believe the form I'm working with is a diatom of the metal with a "ring" of 6 chlorine atoms around the middle of the diatom. It could be expressed as Cl3Au=AuCl3, but this is not quite right either as the Cl6 is like a belt around the Au=Au diatom.

If you can follow this, I would like some input from you your friends. I believe I am over half way to the fully valence- coupled diatomic form of gold and would like to see if my model makes sense to someone other than me.

NEW MESSAGE 2/22/97

>I just made a contact in the telephone company for well regulated DC
>power supplies... they have a 12VDC input (I have 12VDC @ 30 amps) and
>the output is +48VDC (I am not sure of the current yet). I am going to
>look at them after work today (they are headed for scrap tomorrow!).

This should work I think and if it does it may be cheaper than batteries in the long run. Don't spend much on it though because batteries will get the job done.

>I agree with your observation that the chain may corrode and lose
>contact between links. If the links were welded, this would be fine, but
>they're not. I will go buy the extruded wire (%99.999) the first of next
>week. I have the copper 12 ga wire (I am an amateur radio operator, and
>have lots of electronic goodies).

>What is the reason that we need to weld the copper wire to the Au
>electrodes? Is this in order to get the maximum gold in solution? I
>suppose it is important NOT to allow the copper to go into the solution,
>right?

You need solid contact with the electrodes to prevent loss of voltage. The 12 ga copper is only to get the current from your power supply to the electrodes, so if you have some other method in mind it will probably be ok. You are right that you must not get copper or any other metal into your solutions. I haven't worked with metals other than gold and platinum/iridium alloy so I don't know what would happen. I think it is best to try to keep everything as pure as possible for now.

As soon as you get the gold wire, cut two pieces about 3-3 1/2 in long to serve as your electrodes. These just need to be long enough to extend into your solutions without getting any copper. My electrodes are about 3 1/4 inch and I find they are a little short sometimes. I soldered my electrodes to copper leads using 18k gold solder just to be sure I would always have good contact, but I suppose alligator clips would work as well. You need enough copper lead to get from your power supply to the electrodes. My leads are about 18" long and I bent hooks into the ends of mine to hook them to batteries, but clips will be ok too if you are going to use a DC supply. The real requirement is to be able to apply the 48 volts to the two electrodes while they are suspended in solutions in the two beakers. You can do that in what ever way seems the best way to you for the equipment you have.

I have been thinking about this quite a bit and I think most of this method of learning has to be personalized. You will get maximum growth by following what your personal guides tell you to the greatest extent you can. I'll try to give you as much information as you need to get going and hopefully will help you to keep going. After you start making and drinking the gold solutions and dispersions I will describe, you should start to have dreams and other inputs that will tell you what you need to do to make all this fit your own background. By contacting me you are already doing this. I know I'm rambling a bit but I hope you can understand what I'm trying to say.

Anyway, when you get your electrodes and power supply ready, let me know and we'll start with the dilute chlorides until you get your KNO3. When made directly, the chlorides are fairly subtle but they will work to start bringing you information.

>My Chakras are wide open most of the time and they are in real good
>attunement (according to my Reiki Master and a crystal pendulum). I have
>some friends who are able to measure the Chakras and can view the aura
>and open condition of the 3rd eye. This should prove to be quite an
>enlightening experience. I already hear the "Sound", but it doesn't roar
>like loudspeakers.

This is good. Maybe you can get some sort of baseline established before we start. This could be a very good way to determine how you are doing and might even help in knowing what to do next.

>I am interested in what happened with the Crown Chakra "overload" you
>experienced. I am certain that one's Chakras should be in resonance and
>one should be well "grounded" to be able to let the universal energy flow
>in the circuit.

I'm not a chakra expert for sure. What does "grounded" mean? Do I have to have my base chakra in contact with the ground?

What happened was that a few weeks into taking the gold solutions, I started having severe pain in my neck. I reduced the dosage and the pain got better. I concluded from this that by increasing the energy flow in my crown chakra with the gold, I was essentially pulling a vacuum on my throat chakra because it was not sufficiently developed to handle the load. After studying the periodic chart for a few days, I decided that different elements must stimulate different chakras. I concluded that platinum would stimulate the forehead chakra and iridium would stimulate the throat, so I added these to my electrolytes and this seems to have solved the problem.

Like I said, I'm not an expert in this area, but my current understanding is that each person develops differently, so as you open the crown you will probably have to open other chakras to keep it all balanced. You are not likely to have the same problem I did, but you are likely to have something else arise. We will work through such problems if you have any. I think I have a good enough understanding of the different metals now to help if you have any "growing pains". You just have to be alert to the possibility that you can hit a snag. If you do you may have to adjust the mix a bit.

The "sound" will probably get louder and louder as you go, but you'll get used to it.

I have to run. Let me know when you're ready for the next step.

NEW MESSAGE 2/25/97

>You are correct in that grounding is a conscious attachment of the base
>Chakra to earth. This completes the circuit so to speak and allows life
>energy to flow into crown and out through base... I will keep good notes
>on the physical changes.

So I don't need to be physically touching the earth? I just need to visualize the connection? Is it also possible for energy to flow up from the base and out from the crown? What would happen if flow is up instead of down?

>What diameter should the electrodes be (1/8" or so?). I will let you
>know when I get the KNO3 and the power supply in hand. Waiting for the
>electrode dimensions...

The diameter only matters from a structural perspective. Pure gold is extremely malleable and bends easily. This is a slight problem because it is hard to keep the electrodes spaced correctly. My electrodes are hammered and annealed from pure gold casting grain. They are just a little over 1/8" with a small sphere on the end of each. The small spheres are maybe 1/4" diameter and they allow me to get extremely close spacing without arcing. You may want to form these on your electrodes too, but it may not be required. You will need to anneal the wire. From what you've said, your wife can easily do this part.

You don't have to wait for the KNO3 as long as you know it is on the way. We can get started with the chloride solution which only requires NaCl, water, batteries, and gold electrodes.

>PS Have you ever heard of Dan Winter? He is doing a lot of research
>relating to emotion and universal resonance... VERY interesting work. He
>is in the process of manufacturing PC interface boards which will monitor
>several bodily functions (EKG, EEG, Pulse, Etc...) and send them over the
>Internet in real-time. The purpose of this is to provide a real-time
>display of a spinning globe showing when we are all in resonance and
>therefore sending healing energy to earth wherever she needs it. Dan
>believes we can help bring about the upward shift in conscienceless by
>broadcasting such a powerful resonant emotion such as Love. I tend to
>ramble on as well.

I haven't heard of Dan, but I agree that we can shift consciousness by broadcasting. I take it from what you say here that energy should flow down into the Earth. If this is so, have humans done a lot of damage by generating electricity? This is basically pumping energy out of Earth and using it for our own purposes. This is incorrect is it not?

Rambling is ok by me. I ramble too, so I don't have much following. Take care.

NEW MESSAGE 2/27/97

>So, you are interested in learning more about the Chakras huh????

Yes, very interested. You will be too if you follow this gold. The chakras will make themselves obvious to you after only a few weeks.

>May I recommend a book for you? It is:
>Title: Wheels of Life
>Author: Anodea Judith
>Publisher: Llewellyn Publications
>ISBN: 9780875423203

I will look for this book.

>I have found this to be an excellent book for the beginner as well as
>the advanced student as well.... I must admit, I am sort of foggy as to
>what things effect what chakra as well...

This class of diatomic metals have pronounced effects. The use of extremely finely divided metals for this purpose apparently dates back to the origins Hindu science, which in turn, seems to have come from the Indus civilizations over 6,000 years ago. The writings of this civilization can not yet be read.

>As far as grounding goes, yes, just a visualization that the energy is
>flowing from the crown down into earth (towards the center of earth) will
>provide a grounding path in itself. It doesn't matter which way the
>energy flows.

It may matter. The upward flow is referred to as the rise of kundalini, which is a powerful force to reckon with. It is a force which must be integrated right away when it hits. So far, all of the energy flow I get from diatomics is upward. This indicates to me that we are playing with kundalini in ingesting these materials. It would be very useful to know what to do with this force and I would be interested in whatever you may know about it.

>I will be picking up the Gold electrodes Saturday... I have the beakers
>and I am going to use the 6V batteries... (how much of the final material
>will these batteries/gold provide?).

That's a hard question to answer. So far it appears that the yield may be greater than 100%. Not bad eh?

NEW MESSAGE 2/28/97

>Yes, I must agree, the upward flow of energy is the 'kundalini'. As far
>as my comment that it didn't matter, I was referring to any harmful
>effects the energy flow may have . I would like very much to
>experience a kundalini 'release' as it were. I have had times where my
>body was having a 'rush' like mega chills running up and down my body (30
>minutes at a time!). I am wondering if this was a kundalini experience. I
>can invoke this reaction with thoughts of compassion and sending of love
>to the earth.... We'll see. Yeah, please get the book if you can, I am
>now planning on re-reading it.

All these experiences are not so positive. I had quite a bit of trouble with my neck until I added other metals. Others say there can be a dangerous build up of heat.

>When I am successful with the reactions, please don't forget to tell me
>how much to begin with.... ... I would hate to turn inside out and
>be sucked into another universe (not yet anyway)...

The first few reactions will work. You won't have to make all the mistakes I did. With the NaCl, you will start by making about 150 ml in a 250 ml beaker. You react the materials about 15 min per night and take about 50 ml of your product per night (or day). This first material will be a dilute mix of AuCl and NaOH. It will be slightly bitter and a little metallic.

After 3-5 days you should start to notice differences in your dreams and you might start to get some insights about what you need to do (I believe each person will have slightly different needs and experiences). Things will happen like finding a book in an unlikely place which contains information you need or you may get direct instruction from your dreams.

You only need to do the NaCl reaction until your KNO3 arrives. The NaCl is a warm up.

>Please tell me what you mean by annealing the gold, I am sure my wife
>knows, but there is a language barrier here... So, to recap, I am going
>to have two (2) electrodes made of 99.999% gold approx. 1/8 " in
>diameter. To these electrodes, I am going to attach copper leads. I know
>these will be placed in a salt solution, but how far apart? Until they
>arc and then a bit away? Sounds good to me. Another thing, how long does
>the process take to produce the finished product? Are we talking days or
>weeks? I am just curious and I know I will find out soon enough.

Annealing the wire is heating it to just red and cooling it down again. You have to be careful not to melt it.

After you attach the electrodes and get the batteries hooked up, you clean a beaker and rinse it in distilled water. Then fill the beaker with 150-180 ml of distilled water. Get the electrodes as close together as possible without arcing. They should produce almost no bubbles at this point. After you get them as close as you can, then add only about 20 or so grains of NaCl crystals (actual grains not weight grains). Drop these in as close as you can to the electrodes. The electrodes should start to bubble vigorously. Let the reaction proceed about 5 min. then stir with a glass or stainless steel stir bar. Let the reaction continue for a total of 15 min, stirring at 2-3 min intervals. After 15 min., pour off about 50 ml and drink it (you may want to wash it down with a shot of water). Refill the beaker and repeat the following day. Keep your solution covered when not in use. I use a plastic bag for this.

>We are moving into the new house tomorrow (beginning tonight) and I am
>sure fatigued with all the packing and things. We have 2 huge live oaks
>in the yard, and I am both sending and receiving energy from them. I am
>looking forward to discovering how we can link with other life energies.

I love oak trees. I have a big one in my back yard that is around 120 years old. I visit with it quite often. In mid summer, all kinds of fungi grow around the tree and these are also a lot of fun to visit with. Oak trees are good.

NEW MESSAGE 3/3/97

>Should I get USP Sodium Chloride, or will 'Morton' work (not iodized, I
>assume)?

Table salt will be fine. Non iodized is better, but like I said, you will only be using 15-20 grains (actual crystals) at a time, so you won't get much of any impurity if you use 99.5% NaCl.

>You say that I should fill a beaker with approx. 180 ml of H2O and then
>after the reaction is complete (15 minutes or so) pour off 50 ml and
>consume it... you then say to refill the beaker and repeat the process...
>My question is "Do I toss the remaining 130 ml of solution and start from
>scratch? or do I add more H2O to bring the volume back to 180 ml? If I
>add more H2O to the existing solution, do I then add 20 more crystals of
>NaCl?" I sure can confuse myself at times Huh?

You'll do fine. This kind of thing is very hard to describe by correspondence. You always keep the remaining liquid and add additional water to come back to the original level. The exact amount will depend on the length of the electrodes. You want to leave 1/4" or so exposed so you don't risk getting any other metal into the solution. When you add water, you will need to add another 10 grains or so of salt to keep the reaction vigorous. Always keep the solutions covered when not in use. My experience so far is that this material attracts a strange fungus that converts your hard-earned material back to metallic gold.

>I am glad to hear that you love trees as well! Take care my friend.

Yes, I've always loved trees and all types of plants. They are our friends and they keep us alive.

NEW MESSAGE 3/3/97

>I went to the Asian gold market (jewelry store) and spoke with the
>jeweler about making the electrodes. He told me the gold was 460 per
>ounce market and he would charge me 50 dollars to make the wire (no way
>man) I couldn't see paying him 25 dollars apiece to roll gold through a
>wire die and I think he may be steep on the price per ounce....I think
>the 4" X 1/8" would be about 100 dollars apiece (250 total or so). I
>would be more than happy to send you a money order if you are willing to
>make the electrodes, I believe you can beat the price. Please let me know

He is quoting you his price. Like him (I guess), I can't get gold at the actual market price. The last time I bought some, the market was $385/oz (Troy). I had to pay $22.75/dwt which makes my cost $455/oz. It isn't fair, but I haven't found a way around it unless I can buy 100 oz directly from the mine. There is always a middle man to pay.

I think I can beat his price some, but I will have to shave some length, etc. to get the weight down. Around $80 each is probably the best I could do. I will pursue it further if you wish. You might look into some of the gold coins and see if you can get closer to the market price. It won't be a cheap experiment by any stretch, but on the other hand, I have been using my electrodes for nearly 10 months now with no really obvious degradation. Once you get the electrodes, you have enough gold to make 10-12,000 mg of gold diatomics and at 2-5 mg per day it's an ample supply.

>ASAP as I really need to get the show on the road here... Looking
>forward to your return email.

Try to be patient. It will take a little time to get everything assembled.

NEW MESSAGE 3/5/97

>Well, now I am interested in the Chemical explanation of this stuff....
>you mentioned that you wanted me to understand the model of the diatom
>and that this will help me understand the filling of the shells.

I think the model is important to getting really visible results, as it was not until I had a model I could accept that I detected an obvious change in my results. The obvious change was that once I had an acceptable model, I started getting a visible solid dispersion in my batches. To get an acceptable model for myself, I had to integrate what Gary said about the nature of atoms with all the "modern" data I have in my head. I could not just throw everything out and start over because what I already knew has served me well and is not all wrong. This process may be quite a bit different for someone with little or no chemistry background and a slightly different model may work, but I think a successful model is a key for everyone who wants to work with diatomics.

First, I imagined a "current" monatom of gold which would be just starting to fill the 5d10 orbital. This means that the primary valence electron is orbiting in an hour-glass shaped orbit around the north and south poles of the nucleus with a filled shell of 18 electrons below it. Next, I imagined the 18 lower electrons were paired into 9 valence funnels, as suggested by Gary (Gary actually seems to imply there are only six-not a good fit). Now, by applying a little alchemy (?) I figure out a way to combine two monatoms into a diatom and I have the first stage or first partially paired form of diatomic gold. Then, by successive manipulations, I combine more and more of the valence funnels until I have the fully formed diatomic which can no longer react by "traditional" chemistry because all valence electrons have been paired. Now, the fully formed diatom can only be manipulated by electromagnetic interactions to charge and discharge it. It is the fully formed, charged form that interacts strongest with our astral bodies, so this is what we are trying to produce.

This is my model in a nutshell. So far it works but I'm not completely sure if I already have some of this final form or if that is yet to come. What I have so far is pretty amazing material. It is what I would call a red gold colloid. It produces a purplish red transmitted light, a gold colored scattered light, and orange red reflected light. It has definite astral interactions, but so far, they are not consistent and the material doesn't seem to hold a "charge" for long. All in all, I seem to be making good progress.

We will soon see how well this knowledge can be transferred. I think it's safe to say it will require some time and effort. I've been on this approach for close to a year.

NEW MESSAGE 3/5/97

>I have decided to take on the task of finding gold myself... I now know
>that I can purchase a Canadian Maple leaf (.999) for $20.00 above current
>market (or $380.00 total per ounce). This is what I am going to do today,
>so the gold issue is resolved.

This is a very good price and it seems that now is a good time to buy. How does this work? Do you call a broker and he sends you a coin? I assume you can get something like 1/4 oz. coins as a whole oz. would last a couple of lifetimes.

You will still need to form the gold into the two electrodes, but I found this to be a pleasant undertaking. Gold works like no other metal and it is no surprise that it has always been prized.

>As far as the batteries go, I have found a source for 12 volt 38 amp/hr
>gel cells. These cells are used in an un-interruptible power supply for EKG
>equipment in an operating room environment. They are very clean and
>brand new. I will buy 4 of these >(rechargeable) cells today at a total cost
>of $60.00. This should provide >ample current forever .

Yes, rechargeable is an excellent idea. So far I have used 4 sets of regular lantern batteries at a cost of over $90. A rechargeable system would have saved me quite a lot.

>So the bottom line is that I will be ready to go by Friday and I should
>have some results to you soon.

You're moving along pretty well. As I recall, it was around four months before I made simple chlorides, but I was having to figure out what to do as I went.

>One more question... If I want to extract 3 doses per beaker, can I just
>pour out 150ml and then refill? I am assuming that there is approx. 5mg
>AuCl per 50ml solution. Duh, I guess I will understand better as time
>goes on.

I have no way of knowing the amount of AuCl with my own setup because the electrodes are soldered to the leads so there is no convenient way to measure the weight loss. At this stage, I went primarily by the taste of the solution. After reacting for 15 min. I would take about 5 ml and roll the solution from the front of my tongue to the back. This would produce a metallic taste that was stronger or weaker depending on how well the reaction went.

What you are actually doing here is producing primarily AuCl with much smaller amounts of AuCl3 and Au2Cl6. It is the Au2Cl6 that you want as this is in the desired diatomic form. You will only be getting microgram quantities of the "right stuff" in the NaCl reaction. That's why you need the KNO3 reaction first, but we will discuss that when you have everything. The NaCl reaction is a good place to start learning the techniques you will need and it won't be wasted.

If you are planning to take out 3 doses per batch, your results will be much slower. The idea is that by saving 2/3 each time, you gradually increase the level of Au2Cl6 in the product. My estimation is that you need to save at least 1/2 the total quantity each cycle. I have used 24 hr cycles.

If you are planning for 3 people, the procedure probably needs to change a bit. Part of the whole is the interaction of your "aura" or personal energies with the diatomics you produce. This might need to be considered in your plans. At any rate, you will need to increase the quantity per batch to at least 200 ml and reduce the dose to about 30 ml to get increasing amounts of the diatomic.

NEW MESSAGE 3/7/97

>OK, the deal here is this, There are three of us here at work that are
>involved in this experiment. Dawn, Dan, and myself. Each
>of these individuals have been on the path of enlightenment for most of
>their lives, and at this point have made a conscience decision to give up
>"World" for truth and the change of the planetary consciousness (as well
>as universal ascension).
>
>Each has contributed an equal share monetarily, as well as through
>discussion, meditation and intent. We are on this road together, and
>between us, we can keep good checks and balances .
>
>I have (3) 250ml beakers, as well as (6) 250ml flasks. What we are now
>discussing (since your last email) is how to be together each day for a
>unified intent and aura bombardment. I now live within 5 minutes of the
>office. I will set up the equipment there, and each day, we will take our
>lunch at my place. I am going to have the glassware "cleansed" during a
>Reiki healing circle tonight. Dan, Dawn and I will have our "own" beaker
>and flask. Each of us will be responsible for adding the H2O, NaCl,
>electrodes, and intent. So we think that in a hours time, we each can
>have our own solution. Each beaker will have the required 50ml drawn off,
>drank, and then the remaining solution poured into a flask and rubber
>corked for the next days process. This will do away with the requirement
>to strengthen the solution and remove an unnecessary variable. Let me
>know your thoughts on this methodology please.

Yes, this should work fine. In fact, if your auras are closely matched it will work better than if a single person does the procedure. Be aware, however, that there will be some inter-linking of auras in this so be sure of your compatibility. You should also soak your glassware in distilled water for about 24 hours before use to remove trace metals from the glass. You should boil water in all your glassware prior to use to get any mold spores out. These solutions will attract molds that will deactivate your materials. Do not use black rubber corks for the flasks as this will get carbon into your solutions. Use only natural rubber or white neoprene or just cover the flasks loosely with a plastic sandwich bag. Be sure you also keep the beakers covered. Also remember that this material is most effective on an empty stomach. Food seems to greatly diminish its effects. You may want to take all or part of it right before going to sleep as changes in dream content seem to be one of the first effects.

>As far as the Au in coin form, we get Canadian Maple Leaf 1 ounce coins
>from a local Sears store which has a coin counter... We pay 21 dollars
>over current gold market value. We can get half ounce coins, but we would
>be paying the 21 dollars twice for an ounce total... Any coin dealer can
>get these coins for you for about the same cost over market. I will cut
>ours in half and beat it into separate electrodes.

Be sure you anneal the electrodes before you use them. You should probably discard the first solution as it will have some iron in it. However, I did not discard my first so I guess it is ok to use it.

>I am planning to make a jig which holds the electrodes in place and also
>has a movable arm (hinged) which I can raise and lower into the beakers.
>This will allow a consistent surface area to be exposed to the solution.

Make sure that you can move the electrodes as close together as possible without actually touching. Also be sure the beaker tops are well vented as you will generate H2, O2, and Cl2 and this mix will explode if confined.

>You mentioned getting a condensation of matter in the solution... is
>this in the KNO3 solution only? Should I expect a color change in the
>solution with only NaCl? We are planning on a Friday or Saturday first
>run.

You won't get any color change in the first NaCl step. When you get the KNO3, you should develop a strong purple red color on the positive electrode. This is the AuNO3 required to start getting significant diatomics. As you proceed, the AuNO3 will further react to form NO3Au=AuO3N which is the next step. You will then disperse this into the NaCl solution under electrolysis to get Cl3Au=AuCl3 which is very close and should start to get noticeable awakening effects. The solutions will need to be charged for several weeks before you can go beyond this, so we will talk about the next step when you get closer to it. Your "guides" may suggest a slightly different method when you get this far, so it is best to wait and see what happens.

One further note. Some of you may have more sensitivity to the solutions than the rest. You should all get a mild tingling sensation in the stomach 15-30 min after taking the material and this is normal for me. I also get a marked increase in the "sound" as well as differences in its apparent origin. This is normal too. However, if any of you experiences nausea you are either hypersensitive to the solution or the solution is contaminated. If this happens, discard the current solution and start over with a 25 ml dose and work back up to 50 ml.

NEW MESSAGE 3/9/97

I've been out all weekend so I hope I have not held you up by not replying soon enough. I've been watching eagles up at Reelfoot.

>We have received the KNO3. Damn, an ounce of Au and a pound of KNO3...
>several lifetimes you say?
>
>I will soak/boil the glassware beginning tonight. I am going to the
>Vietnamese jeweler tomorrow and pay him 20 bucks to extrude the coin into
>an 8" wire. I assume in the process, he will be melting the gold, so
>there is the annealing. I will be connecting the electrodes to the 8
>gauge copper wire by wrapping fine copper bell wire around them both
>(1/8th inch). I will be sure not to allow the copper into the solution. I
>was considering using a chip of glass (or diamond) between the electrodes
>at the bottom to act as a spacer...with 38 amps of current, I would have
>a blob of metal in no time if a short occurred. Come on now, give me an
>estimated distance between electrodes (1mm) or less? I enjoy this part of
>the project .

Well, several lifetimes if we go by current standards. If you plan to live 500 years (which I understand may be possible), then you may need a little more gold but I don't know that yet.

Since you already have the KNO3, we can essentially skip the chloride step I think. You only need to run one chloride batch to be sure the electrodes are cleaned of iron and such from the jeweler's processing. He will melt the gold into a wire forming crucible and then draw it through tungsten alloy dies. The drawn wire will not be annealed, but I think this is ok. I just wanted to be sure there were uniform crystals in the wire to the extent we can get them.

Yes, with 38 amps available, you have a different thing to deal with. I forgot about that. I have managed to weld my electrodes a few times and this is frustrating, but you could actually vaporize yours. I never measured the gap on my electrodes - I just manually move them as close as I can get without a spark. One mm should work well enough because you do have much better current density than I do. Small chips of quartz crystal would be best for the spacers, as far as I know at least. I know some of this material will stick to Pyrex glass and this causes a loss in yield. Diamond seems a bit extreme, but if you already have a few of these in a 1 mm size they should work as well as quartz.

Since you plan to connect by wrapping you will need to watch the wrapping carefully as the gases released in this process are quite corrosive and will attack the copper. Other than that I think you are about set. I assume your friends are about ready also?

Plan to run each set of electrodes in the dilute NaCl for about 15 minutes to clean them and we will go on to the KNO3 reaction since you already have that. What form of KNO3 did you get? Is it a fine crystalline material or is it in large crystals? I'm working with fine crystalline material that is about the same size as table salt crystals, so I'm used to thinking in terms of 15-25 discrete crystals rather than 5-10 mg of material.

>Dan and Dawn are going to take their 50ml home and consume it before
>bedtime, they want to keep detailed logs of process as well as dreams, I
>think this will be fine, unless they move in with me. I will just take mine
>at bedtime.

Good. I started by taking mine at bedtime also and as I mentioned, one of the first things I noticed was a change in dream content. Maybe we can compare dreams to some extent. I would think there may be some parallels, but let's see what happens. Your own directions may come from some other media.

>BTW, David Hudson is planning on sending out the first shipment
>of ORME materials this May, would you be interested in some of
>this matter? Perhaps there is a way we can use it to 'Seed' a solution...
>Let me know.

Yes, I would be interested in this material. I think I understand (at least a little) what's going on with ORMEs and if my bit of insight is correct, the material that will come out will have to be "charged" to be effective. If it is not charged it will simply pass through you with essentially no effect. The process I'm currently working can take the material to "red" gold and there are evidently several levels beyond that. We will soon see I guess.

The way things currently stand, it looks like most of the material distributed could be used with little or no effectiveness.

As I mentioned, I think the rhodium, iridium, and gold are the most important of these.

I hope your weekend has gone well and tomorrow will find you ready to produce elevated gold compounds.

NEW MESSAGE 3/10/97

>Last night I made the electrode carrier. It looks very much like a
>guillotine and will allow us to raise and lower the electrodes safely. I
>will send a photo when I get one.

I'd be interested in seeing what you came up with. Sounds like you like ceremony more than I do.

>The electrodes are square 3 x 3 mm and are 10.5 cm in length. The
>jeweler annealed the gold and did pull it through a roller type forming
>device.

The size sounds good. The roller type will leave even more iron on your gold, but it will come off quickly. You may get a small amount of white or dark precipitate in the first couple of runs. Don't get excited as these will be iron compounds. They won't do you any good but they won't hurt you either as far as I know.

>The inter-electrode distance currently is 2mm and I have placed a nylon
>wire tie (very tiny one) at the tip of the electrodes to prevent them
>from shorting. I believe the material in the tie is non reactive and
>there is NO metal in the tie. I used two of the same wire ties to connect
>the gold to the copper wire, and I am planning of silicone gooping around
>the connection tonight.

The distance is a matter of how much current you can get to flow. I've always judged this by how vigorous the reaction is. You should get essentially no reaction at all until you add the salt. After adding 15-20 grains (crystals) you should have very rapid bubbling. The nylon may or may not be a good idea. This reaction will generate free chlorine (enough to smell) and this should attack the nylon pretty quickly. If you get any free carbon, it will kill your gold. Keep a close eye on the nylon and try to switch to a crystalline material for the spacers as soon as you can.

>I will go to Radio Shack tonight as well and get a fused power lead (1/2
>amp) to prevent melt-down (!)

Good thinking!

>Dawn, Dan and I are planning the first run tonight around 6:00 P.M.
>EST. I have soaked the glassware in distilled H2O for the weekend
>and we will boil H2O in each before our initial use tonight.

We have a slight time problem. I'm on CST and I never get my mail before 6 p.m. CST. If one of you can bring a computer to your house, we can talk some while you are working. This might be helpful the first few times.

>I am going to use NaCl for the first run (and consume) then make a
>second with 20 grains or so of KNO3 (Yes, ours is crystalline like
>salt).

Good on the crystals. I'm not used to weighing things out unless I have to. I have two scales but I only use those when I'm casting.

>If there is anything else you need to mention, please do it now

Some general notes for moving on to KNO3.

The next set of reactions involve two dilute solutions, thus requiring two beakers. You will first accumulate a small amount of red gold nitrate on the positive electrode of the electrolysis cell. You will then dissolve this gold nitrate in a dilute NaCl solution which is under electrolysis. The Cl released in the NaCl reaction will react with the gold nitrate and the positive electrode will return to the color of gold, but it will be a slightly different color than the negative electrode. The gold nitrate from the positive electrode will react to mostly AuCl3 with a small amount (about 1%) Cl3Au=AuCl3. The Au2Cl6 is what you want to accumulate.

Start the KNO3 reaction the same way you did the NaCl (I'm assuming you have already done this). Add 150-180 ml distilled water to the beaker and place the electrodes in the water. You should get no reaction from the pure water. Add 15 grains of KNO3 and see how fast the reaction is. Add 5 more to speed up to vigorous if 15 looks slow. Do not exceed 20-25 grains as you will spoil the reaction if you get too much.

In about 10 minutes you should start to see a color change on the positive electrode. It will start to take on a red color which will darken to a red-violet color in about 15 minutes. A lot of gas will bubble off and this should have a "sweet" smell. If the smell is sour or acrid, something is wrong.

If you do not get this color change, you will have to try again. Color is the indicator that you have AuNO3 on the electrode. If you do not get the color change on the second try, you will have to get rid of the nylon. Try glass if nothing else comes along.

Assuming you do get the color change, stop after about 15 min (it may take less - sometimes mine will get fully loaded in 5 min.) and remove the electrodes from the KNO3 solution. Do not react beyond the red-violet color whether this takes 5 min or 15 min, because over reacting will lose gold to the nitrate solution.

Put the reacted electrodes in fresh water in a separate beaker and add 15-20 grains of NaCl to get it going. Again add more NaCl until you get vigorous reaction. Again a lot of gas will evolve. This gas will smell slightly metallic with a bit of chlorine. It will be distinctly different from the gas you get with KNO3. As I mentioned before, DO NOT let this gas accumulate as it will explode spontaneously and ruin your day.

As the reaction proceeds, you will see the positive electrode change in color from red-violet to a gold color. The color change will be uneven but you should continue the reaction until the electrode has changed completely. If you do not get all the red gold off, you will have black spots on the positive electrode after 10-12 hours.

The final chloride solution is what you want. Both reactions will get quicker and easier as you accumulate material in your working solutions. Watch closely for the gold-eating fungus in the nitrate solution. You must stop this thing quickly or it will convert all your work back to base gold. If you get this fungus, contact me ASAP.

After 3-4 batches, you can start to make extra material for use when you have other things that you have to do, like trips, etc. Store the excess material in a covered flask. It seems to be good for about 5 days at first and for as long as 7 later on (at least for conditions here).

Eventually (3-5 weeks) you should start to get color changes in both of the working solutions. Let me know when these occur and what they are. And we will proceed from there.

You will probably start to get changes in your dreams within a few days. Dreams have been my primary medium, but there are many other ways you may get information. Some things are subtle so pay attention. Other things you may experience are loud ringing and popping, tingling sensations, and perception changes. Expect almost anything but if you get nausea or diarrhea stop taking this stuff right away! This is not good and something is wrong in the procedure. Also be aware that this material may amplify some medicines. You should not take other things with it if you can avoid it. You should be cautious even with supplements as some of these could react too.

>As far as ORMES goes, I expect about 500 grams of Rhodium,
>500 grams of Iridium and 12 grams of Au and various amounts of
>the others... at a minimum, from Hudson, per quarter!
>Keep in touch and don't forget to let me know how to charge ORMES.

That's a lot of metal (or something). I don't know much about DH's plans. Is he mining this stuff?

Don't worry about charging. You will very likely understand how to do this by the time it is shipped. It has taken me a year to get this far and you should probably pick it up faster as you will not have to make so many mistakes. You are going to have to visualize the process to make it work and I don't think you are there yet but I am confident that you will get there.

I hope all goes well for you in these first few days. Talk to me as often as you need to.

NEW MESSAGE 3/11/97

Congratulations! You have done well and are on your way to higher planes.

>We hooked up an ammeter in series with the negative power lead and used
>this to monitor the current flow as we added the crystals.

The addition of the ammeter is a very good idea. It will give you a way to control the reaction and get more consistent results.

>I added what I thought was about 25 grains or so (a little bit on my
>fingertip...) and noted the current flow when the reaction began to
>bubble furiously... The current was @ .25A
>The current dropped about .05A as I stirred the solution, but within
>seconds, came back up to normal. I continued this stirring every 3 or so
>minutes until the timer beeped (15 minutes).
>Dan was next and he placed his beaker with 180ml Distilled H2O on the
>guillotine. He got a bit carried away, and ended up with a
>current flow of about .35A, but we proceeded as usual.
>Dawn has a good current flow at .25 -.27A

Currents up to about 0.4A are probably ok, but you should stick to about 0.3A as much as you can. Too high on current will form less of the diatomic material.

>We did notice a darkening of the electrode (positive), I am not too sure
>of it's color, but it may have been deep purple (machine head???)
>Oh, before I continue, we DID use the NaCl in a 15 minute reaction prior
>to beginning, and we all drank equal amounts of the solution...

You should only get darkening on the positive electrode in the nitrate reaction. Dark colors in the chloride reaction indicate impurities that you need to remove from your system. You should only proceed to a uniform dark red-purple. If you process too long, you will lose gold to the nitrate.

>When we were finished, Dan drank his immediately, Dawn and I opted to
>wait until bedtime to consume ours. I made some minor modifications to
>the apparatus (added a permanent way to plug in my ammeter (fluke meter),
>and put everything to bed.
>We all have our solutions in the beaker and are awaiting tonight to 'Do
>it again'

Good. I am glad things are going well. Remember: nitrate first to collect red gold on positive; chloride second to react nitrate to chloride. Don't drink the nitrate. It won't hurt you but it won't help much either. Drink the chloride only.

>We had a good time and we all felt good about the experiment, we all had
>to help out and get everything running, so it was a good team effort. I
>am sure God was there as well as our guides.

I'm excited too! You seem to be getting good results from the start. I had to do a lot of trial and error.

Your guides will be with you and so will God.

>Now, we have 120ml solution each from last night... should we continue
>with what we are doing for a week or so, or do I change the process?
>Should each of us do the KNO3 process and then the NaCl before passing
>it on to the next person? What do we do with the solutions in each
>beaker? Sorry, I am a bit confused at this point. I will place the
>electrodes in the KNO3 solution from last night, add more H2O to 180ml,
>and react as before. I will then lift the electrodes, place a new beaker
>full of H2O there and react with NaCl until the electrode (+) is clean.
>At this point, I have two beakers of solution and it is Dan's or Dawn's
>turn... help! Which one do we consume and how much???

Sorry I wasn't clear. Don't take the nitrate just the chloride. You should each do both reactions in sequence as the material on the positive electrode will oxidize to a black material very quickly. See above. Take about 50 ml per day of the chloride and replenish this daily.

>If you feel comfortable, please pass on your land line, I can call you
>from the kitchen as we are doing it... I do not have a computer at home
>(I get enough at work).

I never answer the phone. We have an answering machine as my wife uses the line for her business, so you would be wasting a long-distance call. I don't think very quickly on the phone either. I would rather type for now. This is the medium by which we met.

>I think we are going to stay with the .25A current flow with both
>reactions, as this will give us some sort of control. I did consider that
>as the solution gets denser, the current will flow better, and so I would
>be putting less and less salt into it to maintain the .25A. What are your
>feelings here? Should we continue to place 25 or so grains of salt in
>each run and just keep a log of the increased current flow? Hmmm...

Hold your current to 0.25-0.3A for the reason mentioned above. You have it right on what will happen. You will seldom need to add any KNO3. Just enough to replace the material that is electrolyzed. With time, the nitrate solution will accumulate reactants and take on a slight purple color. You will need to replace part of it about every 15 reactions. Pour off about 50 ml and save this in a covered Pyrex flask. You will use this later, so don't discard it.

The chloride will need to be refreshed each time you use it. Try to maintain constant amperage on both solutions.

>We didn't pay too much attention to the odor of the gases, tonight I
>will be sure to note that as well... Dan did note that he thought the
>solution had a red tinge to it...

The nitrate should have a "sweet" odor and the chloride should be a little "sharp". The red tinge is an indicator of success in the nitrate reaction. Some will notice this much sooner than others as sensitivity to this color is rare. Dan may be able to detect the colors first. If so he will also react more quickly. You will each have to adjust your dosage as you go, so keep me informed of your reactions. Each of you will be a little different. BTW do any or all of you wear glasses?

>OK.. now for David Hudson... Yes, he is mining the base material
>from the earth. There will be 12 elements he will be shipping
>(separated in their own container) and they will be in proportion
>to the ratio found in the ore. Which are you interested in?

So he will only separate the components and each person will have to determine what to do. I guess that's about as good as he can do for now.

At the moment, I am most interested in Iridium and Rhodium. These two seem to be closely linked to the forehead chakra and I think I can accomplish a lot more if I awaken my "third eye" abilities. This is happening to some extent already, but I think I can accelerate this quite a bit.

I would also like to see if I can raise the Au to a higher state as I conjecture it will be shipped in its lowest state.

I don't know about the others. What are the other 9?

>If I get your number, I will give you a call, otherwise, tonight, we
>will process as usual and consume the KNO3 solution.

Don't consume the nitrate, just the chloride. Sorry I confused you on that.

NEW MESSAGE 3/12/97

>I added what I thought to be an equivalent of 20 to 30 grains (not grain
>like aspirin) of KNO3 and the stew began to boil. I took note of the
>current and it was.50A -.60A. Dawn just added enough KNO3 to bring the
>current draw up to .30A.

See my previous note. Keep amps at about 0.3. Consume only the chloride.

>Dawn noted that there was very minute flakes (not too many) of material
>settling on the bottom of her beaker. I noted the same when my turn came.
>I am not sure what this is, but I suppose it came from the anode. The
>anode color is dark (more black than red) and it could be a ferrous
>derivative.

Some dark flakes can occur in the chloride solution due to high current in that step. You may need to reduce the current to 0.2 if this continues. Black flakes probably indicate unconverted nitrate and this is not good. Black flakes can also be caused by the water. You may need to buy another brand if reduced current doesn't work. Black on the anode indicates oxidation there. This is also high amperage and you should reduce to 0.2 if it continues. Interrupt the nitrate reaction at about 3 minutes and check the anode color. It should be red. If it is brown or black, the current is probably too high and will need to be reduced.

>The smell, we took notice of this time.... It was sweet and reminded me
>of ozone at first, but could have had a chlorine scent.... I think more
>like ozone (O3).

The gas from the nitrate is pleasant, but the chloride should be a little sharp. The two should smell different.

>Should we continue with the anode being dark for the rest of this week,
>or should we clean it in a second beaker of NaClH2O?

See my last note. You should do both reactions each time.

We will get it down soon. You are picking things up quickly. I'm glad we're doing this.

NEW MESSAGE 3/13/97

>Tomorrow, we will have the 3 new beakers and can begin the 2 step
>process. As it is now, the electrodes are clean.

This should get you started in the right direction. Now a lot will depend on your guidance. Pay attention to anything unusual and also listen to your body. It will start to help you with things you need to do.

I am still concerned about the nylon in your system. The gold that is born in your process will be exposed to this substance as it is formed. I think you would do better if you could find a more positive material for the spacer. Please give this some thought.

>I would like to make mention of the fact that since Dan and I had
>current flows in the .50-.60 range and Dawn kept hers in the .25-.30
>range, Dawn'sKNO3 solution has a much pinker tinge to it than Dan and I
>have.... Just thought I'd mention that fact.

Dawn seems to have good instincts for this. Follow her lead and reduce your current. Would Dawn mind if you gave me some background about her?

>BTW, I noticed a slight darkening of the cathode during the cleaning
>process...

This sometimes happens with me also. It will all come off if you extend the cleaning, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything to just leave it unless it gets so heavy as to interfere with the reaction.

NEW MESSAGE 3/14/97

>Dawn's beaker of KNO3 is getting to be a dark purple color, it is still
>translucent. As far as I can tell the NaCl solution of hers is still
>clear. Keep in mind the fact that Dawn has always kept her current below
>.3A (.25 to .30) and she has been using the clock (7 to 10 minutes per
>solution).
>
>Dan's beaker of KNO3 is getting purplish but not at the same rate as
>Dawn'ssolution. Dan's NaCl solution is still clear. Dan was using
>current densities less than mine, yet much greater than Dawn'. I would
>estimate Dan's current flow between .45 and .55A
>My KNO3 solution was very NOT purplish... I had the highest current flow
>of them all (accidentally of course) which was as high as .6A on one cycle.
>
>My NaCl has remained clear too. I have been mulling over the
>discoloration of the anode for quite some time (since the high current
>flow) and have determined that the discoloration was baked on the anode
>and wasn't coming off no matter how much of a chloride bath I subject it
>to.
>
>OK, I will fess up at this point
>
>I tried to clean the anode with an 8 hour process @ .1A of NaClH2O.
>When I awoke in the morning, the solution was a bright yellow. I tried
>about 50ml of it and dumped the rest down the drain (I have had tickley
>stomach feelings all day BTW). The effect of this endeavor was to make
>the anode even darker red, and more difficult to remove the
>discoloration. I ended up removing the electrodes from the copper wire
>and used croakus cloth to buff them back to gold.
>
>I dumped my KNO3 and NaCl, cleaned the beakers, and began from scratch,
>this time under the watchful eye of Dawn, kept the current densities low
>(.25 to .27). Dan is going to keep his as a control. If mine gets purple
>faster than his, then we will know the higher current flow retards the
>formation of the color in solution (KNO3).
>
>If you have any insight into what we have discovered, please share it...

What you have discovered is an impurity. It is most likely in the gold, but could be in the water. The color changes you have described so far indicate there is silver and copper in your gold.

The dark purple color in Dawn & Dan's nitrate should not be happening as far as I know. You describe Dawn's solution as being translucent. Do you mean it is transparent or that it is actually milky?

The bright yellow you got in the overnight run is a strong indicator of silver colloid. I'm pretty sure you've got a good bit of silver and possibly copper in your gold. Do not drink any more of these solutions until we can determine what the problem is. You can tolerate a small amount of silver or copper but both can damage your organs if you get too much of them. Dan and Dawn should keep their nitrate solutions as we may be able to salvage part of these, but do not drink them.

Your anode should have taken on a pure burnished gold color and the cathode should have had a lighter gold color. Neither of the electrodes should have the hard, black coating you describe.

I think we can probably salvage the electrodes, but it would be helpful if you could get them analyzed. Do any of your friends have access to spectrographic equipment? That would be the fastest way to determine what we are dealing with. If it is just silver and copper I know a few tricks we can do, but if you have a significant amount of any other metal we will have to know what the metal is.

Sorry you have hit a problem. This is one situation where typing doesn't work well. It is hard to do much chemistry this way. I'll try to think of some other things you can check on.

NEW MESSAGE 3/14/97

Regarding my last post, I have looked back through all our correspondence and I find I have never gotten your phone number. I wish I had. I would call you tonight. You need to stop the experiment until we can work out how to purify your electrodes. Unfortunately, you will not get this until Monday. When you get this, if you will leave me a phone number I will give you a call.

I have had a few other ideas. First, are you sure the Maples are 0.999 gold? US mint gold coins are only 0.92 gold. This is done because pure gold is not suitable for coins. It is too soft. I would be somewhat surprised if Canadian mints had not figured this out. When you get a US coin, you get an ounce of gold, but it is alloyed. If you know this is mint gold, then at least we will know how to compensate.

Second, did you watch the jeweler to be sure he used clean equipment in processing your gold? If he used crucibles and drawing equipment that were contaminated with 14 karat or other alloys, you may have contamination in just spots or just on the surface. Tell me what you can remember.

NEW MESSAGE 3/17/97

>1. I am sure that the Maple Leafs are .9999, unlike the US coins or
>Kugerands. My wife checked it with her ever accurate 'bite test' (the gold
>coin book says it's 99.99% (.9999 is stamped on the coin as well).

Ok. I guess we can rule out the supplier.

>2. The shop where the jeweler works leaves a lot to be desired.
>I watched him as he took what looked like a charcoal block (like a 2X6
>which had been severely charred), scrapped it, and placed the coin in the
>indentation. He turned on his torch and began the melting process. In
>about one minute, the gold was molten and then he took it to the back to
>roll it. I guess he was too late, for he had to return and heat it up
>again. This time, when he heated it, he tossed it into a can (soup can?)
>of H2O to anneal it (it must have been too soft). He then took it back to
>roll it, which is what the finished product was.
>He does sell a lot of 18K gold and he does sell silver, so there is a
>distinct possibility there is silver contamination as well as copper if
>he used this to alloy his 18k material. Now that I think about it, the
>carbon concerns me as well.

First, do you feel sure he didn't switch you 18k for your 24k? Hopefully, we can rule that out, but it has been done many times before.

If he gave you back your original material, then he certainly contaminated it with the processes you described. The charcoal melting block is a definite source of silver and copper, maybe others. We are going to have to "pickle" and burnish your electrodes. The pickling process is best done with either 5% H2SO4, 5% HCl, or 5% HNO3. The HCl will be easiest to get as you can get that as muriatic acid at a pool supply. You only need an ounce or less, so don't buy any large quantity. If you can't get one of the mineral acids short of having to buy a whole gallon, citric acid should work as well. You can get that at a drug store. If you can't get anything else, we can also do this with brine, but it takes a little more time. Let me know which you can come up with.

The process is essentially the same for any of them. First, dilute the acid to 5%. Be sure to wear safety glasses (or at least side shields) and don't get any concentrated acid on your skin! I can give you volumes when you can tell me which acid you have and its concentration. Next, soak the electrodes for about an hour in the 5% acid. Overnight if you use citric acid. After this you will need to heat the electrodes to just dull red. You will need a propane torch and practice with a piece of copper wire to get a feel for the time needed. After heating, drop them into water. The heating is annealing which changes the grain structure of the metal and dropping in water is quenching.

Next, you need to burnish the electrodes to smooth out the gold on the surface. This is best done with a smooth piece of agate or jade glued to a short (4" or so) piece of wooden dowel. While you are burnishing, you should round off the square edges of your electrodes as sharp points will cause excess current flow from the corners. Try to get as close to round as you can. After burnishing, repeat pickling and burnish again. This should get you ready to go.

>3. The dark (very dark) burgundy (brown) discoloration only occurs on the
>four sides of the anode, it appears that the corners function OK. When we
>put the electrodes in the KNO3, we can see a slight reddening of the
>corners, which goes away in the chloride dip.
>This would indicate to me you are correct in that there was some
>contamination added to the gold when he was 'rolling' it through the
>forming jig.

You probably got a lot from the melting too. My main concern is cadmium as this is used in a lot of solders and may have been in the charcoal. I don't want any of you to get any cadmium as this will definitely slow you down. I think it is best if you discard your solutions to be sure you haven't picked up anything harmful. I hate to see you waste your efforts to date, but with no way to check what is in your solutions, it is probably best to start over. But before you discard them, check to see if there is colloidal material in them. You do this by shining a flashlight through them in a dark room. Colloid shows up as extremely fine cloudy material that has no apparent motion (unless highly magnified). Let me know your results.

>4. As I mentioned before, I had buffed the discoloration out with a micro
>fine machinist's paper, and tried again. The discoloration is back and is
>impervious to removal by scrapping with a fingernail. It begins as a dark
>red, but gets darker by the 3rd or 4th cycle. The color now is almost
>black, but I can see it is very deep dark red (dark, dark brownish). It
>seemed to get this very dark color while exposed to air (overnight).
>
>5. The cathode (-) has a slight discoloration (browning), but I can see
>the gold through it.
>
>6. All 3 of our nitrate solutions are a medium purple color. By
>translucent, I mean the we can see through it fine, but it is purple
>color. Sorry about that, it is transparent... looks like weak grape
>Kool Aid.
>
>7. I had an episode where both my nitrate and chloride turned purple, but
>I think it may have been inattention to the process (I may have added
>nitrate to the chloride solution .
>
>8. As things are now, we all have purple nitrate, and clear chloride
>solutions, and we don't seem to be experiencing and dream changes or
>loudening of the 'Hu' (sound).

It is possible that we are only seeing an effect of the electrode geometry. The dark red on the anode is about right but cathode darkening and the solution colors aren't right. I'll feel a lot better if you can purify and burnish the electrodes so we know more about what you've got.

This sounds like something we can work through. I just wanted to be sure you didn't get a lot of impurities in you.

>I will be leave everything as it is for now until I hear from you. I do
>not have any way of analyzing the gold.

I thought perhaps your physicist friend might have access to such equipment. But we can work without it. The methods are at least 4,000 years old, so they should work ok.

Let me know tomorrow what things you can get (or not get) for pickling and burnishing.

NEW MESSAGE 3/18/97

>OK, I am going to Wal-Mart (where else) to buy some muriatic acid. I can
>give the leftovers to a friend.

HCl will work the fastest. Be sure to dilute the stuff to about 5% (this is mostly to prevent excessive splattering if it reacts with something on the gold). If there are metallic impurities, you should see bubbles on the gold. You can isolate any impure pockets by watching where the bubbles form. Don't get any of this stuff in your eyes and be prepared to wash thoroughly if you get splashed.

>I am sure that he gave us back the original gold, My wife kept a watchful
>eye on him, and she REALLY knows gold.... I concur with you that the
>contamination was picked up somewhere in his process.

I guessed you probably covered that, but thought I should check.

>Is the acid soak and heating going to remove all the contaminates that
>you think may be in the material? What is going to happen if there is
>contamination within the material and not just on the external surfaces?
>
>I will do the annealing and burnishing tonight as well, can I use a
>large quartz crystal? I am not too sure my wife will allow me to use her
>jade jewelry to burnish the gold, but I have some other soft smooth
>stones... How about just a good piece of mahogany or oak?

This process will not remove contaminants that are very deep in the gold. It will only remove contaminants that are accessible from the outside. The burnishing will refinish the surface so that only pure gold is in contact with your solutions. The burnishing is important. Do not use a quartz crystal unless it has been rounded and polished. Use only a rounded, polished stone that will leave a very bright finish. A hard, unpolished stone will scratch the surface and leave you back where you started. You also need to round the edges of the electrodes as much as you can as this seems to be producing a non-uniform current flow.

>We have already tossed our solutions and I am soaking all the glassware
>in distilled H2O for another try. If I had a digital camera, I could take
>pictures of the electrodes and send them to you in email... In fact, this
>may be a good idea, let me look into it...

Did you by chance examine the solutions for colloid? Don't worry much about pictures as I would probably need fairly high magnification to tell much.

>Take care and I will sent more information as it arrives. Thank
>you for the help and insight. I do believe we have the process down just
>fine, the only issue is the contamination.

I think you still may have a minor adjustment or two. You should reduce your current down into the 0.1-0.15 range as it does seem possible to burn the bread in this. I still don't like the nylon much either, but it is early yet. Don't try to go too fast because that won't work. I would like you to be successful in this effort because this may help many others to get started as well.

NEW MESSAGE 3/19/97

>Let me begin by describing the color and texture of the electrodes before
>I began the acid/burnishing process. I must make this observation due to
>the dramatic difference in the end product from the beginning. The color
>of the gold was a very deep yellow (just like any Asian .9999 gold) but
>lacked ANY luster at all. The finish was not smooth in any sense of the
>word, but rather striated a bit from the surface of the drawing rollers.
>It was tough to get it to reflect any appreciable amount of light which
>was directed upon it (I used a laser). So on with the project:
>
>I obtained 31.5% HCl in the form of muriatic acid. I took this home and
>added 50ml of it to 250ml distilled H2O.
>
>I soaked the electrodes in this solution for one hour at which time I
>took them out and thoroughly rinsed them in tap water. I then heated them
>up to a dull red (My wife helped in the observations) and immediately
>plunged them into a flask of distilled H2O and let them cool for 10
>minutes.
>
>I took them from the H2O and began the process of burnishing using a
>very hard shiny stone (My wife said it was the right type) and I immediately
>began to see the light so to speak
>It took me about an hour on each electrode (I did a little
>hammering work to round the square edges) and I will tell you this, my
>arms hurt like hell , but I seemed to want to keep doing this all
>night. I understand what you were saying about working with this metal,
>it is hypnotic at times.... Anyway, I got them to a brilliant finish (as
>best as I could) and soaked them again in the 5% HCl solution.
>
>After an hour in solution, I removed the gold and again rinsed them in
>tap water and heated them to glowing red (dull glowing) and quenched
>them. I left them in the H2O for 10 minutes. I noticed the first
>annealing had a very orange flame produced for a while, then it went back
>to blue... less so on the second pass.
>My wife and I burnished the electrodes for another hour (30 minutes
>each) and reattached them to the guillotine....
>
>The color of the resulting electrodes is still yellow, but they glow! I
>can see my reflection in them quite well, and they are smooth as glass.
>It looks like they are highly polished. I have minute areas (very minute)
>which I missed due to the size of the burnishing stone, but I was very
>tired and sleepy (1:30 A.M.)

Gold is truly a beautiful metal. You can feel it's warmth. It is good that my wife has experience with it. It is hard to describe exactly what to do. The color in the flame while annealing is probably just residual chloride. Muriatic is not very pure.

It sounds like you have the electrodes close to perfect this time and you should have no further problems with contamination. Tell your wife I said thanks for helping you out.

>I found it VERY interesting that you mentioned the fact that we should
>reduce the current flow to approx. .1A, as I came to this conclusion
>independently, also discussed it with Dan, who agreed.

We will have many similar thoughts as the material you make will start to teach you.

NEW MESSAGE 3/19/97

>Dawn went first, (BTW she will send you some email today). She used
>KNO3 until the current went to .22A (yeah, I mentioned your last
>email...) She said she liked that number for some reason . We
>didn't bother using the clock, we went until we got a reddening of the
>anode (looked very much like a varnish used on copper wire when used in a
>transformer). We were able to always see the shiny gold under the
>color...always.

Dawn has good instincts for this and if 0.22 feels right, she should use it. The red coating is just what you are looking for and it sounds like you are doing it just right now. I almost never time my runs, but go on the thickness of the red coating. My time varies quite a lot because I'm using the lantern cells. I think I will look for rechargeable batteries when I get back.

>I think we went about 10 minutes until the chloride bath. The NaCl was
>added until the current was about .2 -.22 amps. Dawn cooked until we
>thought all the color was as off as it was going to get (10-12 minutes).
>We still had some slight discoloration on the anode, but it was really
>different from the discoloration we had previously experienced for
>several reasons:
>
>1. The color was transparent at all times, not dark burgundy and opaque.
>
>2. It was a very thin coating, not like crust.
>
>3. It allowed the shiny gold to beam through.
>
>The cathode was NEVER discolored, even after my run... it always
>remained very shiny and gold.

You will get and keep a slightly deeper gold color on the anode and this color will not darken on exposure to air. It will keep a shiny, burnished look. Do not wipe this layer or disturb it. It is partially diatomized gold and you want to keep it on the anode. The cathode may get a few dark places on it with time. My cathode is noticeably dissolving now and is becoming duller. You should expect this as the gold in the solutions (and later dispersions) apparently comes from the cathode but it is transformed at the anode.

>We noticed very big bubbles of gas ALL around the anode this time, not
>just on the corners, and where there weren't big bubbles, there were very
>tiny ones.

The bubbles will get bigger and more persistent as the solutions get stronger. Don't be too startled if they go off with a loud pop. This happens occasionally as the gases are explosive.

>The current seemed to be more stable this time and not climb out of
>control during the chloride process in both cases.
>I ran my sample by the clock, 10-12 minutes each dip @ .10 - .13 amp.

I will leave it to you, but you don't really need to use a clock. You can go on the color. Everything sounds just right now. I am quite pleased you have done so well. I think you may have gold wine within a few weeks. It took me a year.

>When I finished my run, I still had slight discoloration on the anode,
>but again, very slight and transparent, like a varnish... I tried to
>gently wipe the anode with a paper towel, and there was a noticeable
>film... but VERY thin. I will check the anode tonight and see if it turns
>black.

As I mentioned above, do not disturb this film. It is supposed to be there and is important to your success. It should stay shiny and will develop a hypnotic effect. I stare at my anode each time I use it. It is such a unique color, it cannot be described. You are among the first of this Age to see it.

>Please let me know if we are getting closer to home base this time....

You seem to be right on the money! Keep doing what you are doing, but do not disturb the anode.

>We have NO color in either of the solutions at this time.

Yes, this is right. You will develop a very faint purplish color in the nitrate. You have to look close to see it. And the nitrate will also develop a particular glint in bright light. When it is fully charged, it will start to leave a very thin film of purple on the beaker. Let me know when this happens.

The chloride will take on a very faint yellow glint. It will be ready for the next step when the nitrate gets ready.

You mentioned you have a laser? Tell me a bit about it. This is one of the next things I'm looking at and you may well be ready before I am.

Congratulations on your success! Keep me posted.

NEW MESSAGE 3/20/97

>Although I made an effort to wipe the crap off the anode, I shall cease
>and desist (or Dawn will kick my ass )

You can never tell what a little crap can do for you. This particular crap is pretty amazing as such things go.

>I took my batch out on the deck last night and raised it up in thanks to
>the four corners of the earth (ceremony again) and to the moon and to
>Sirius. I drank the solution and then held the mighty oaks and embedded
>by consciousness within the universal library....

Oaks are special trees. The older the better. Sirius has very strong effects on this material. Try to travel toward Sirius and let me know what you feel.

>Anyway, I had a fabulous lucid dream last night. I was in front of what
>WAS my house, it was a bit torn down, but I thought it's all right... I
>walked a bit away and discovered water everywhere (like flooding) and
>thought to myself "This is an altered state (dimension) brought on by the
>use of the gold". I actually had this presence of being from another
>place in time! I was successful in taking my consciousness through the
>'wormhole' in it's entirety and then bringing it back through again. If
>you understand fractality and infinite recursion (Dan Winter stuff) and
>how it relates to love and the ability to survive the shift to 4th
>density, then it is very exciting indeed!
>
>I will admit however, that this may have been an OOB and the person I
>was sharing eyes with may have been in a flood condition and this was a
>'real time' experience.

Excellent progress. To have such a dream and know in the dream that the gold caused it is a special event to me.

In my own experience, the vision of flood is a vision of a possible future of yours. It does not have to happen, but it can. I have had several similar and some have happened but others (with bad outcomes) I have prevented. You will see the moment in which you can act.

The last half is personal information for you. Write down as much as you can for reference. I receive a lot of information in the form of puzzles. To solve one is to take a quantum leap in understanding.

I'm glad the gold is working. Are Dawn and Dan experiencing any dream changes?

>I have been into Lasers for about 20 years now. I only have owned
>Helium-Neon gas Lasers, but I have had experience with KrAr as well. I
>was very much into holography in the early 80s, and a divorce ended my
>relationship with my workshop/lab. I was planning on getting it back in
>operation someday, but I would like to experiment with charging things
>via the minute electromagnetic influence of the photon..... I have a
>couple of extra HeNe gas tubes (enclosed) without power supplies if you
>would like one... But HeNe self contained Lasers can be had pretty cheap
>now a days... If you have any questions about them, ask away...

You will have material to work with soon that will need added charge. Direct sun works a little but what we really need is a blue or ultraviolet laser. Unfortunately, these are currently hard to come by. I hope to start some tests soon using green (maybe) as a pump to get what I want. I'm doing a little work with sun light and this may be enough if I concentrate it.

>Have a nice trip, and we will talk to you when you return. Let us know
>via email when you are back, OK?

I will. I hope your new journeys are good ones!

Take care.

Further communication from the chemical engineer

I'm giving our experiment a lot of thought. You'll have to give me some time on this. A coworker loaned me "In Search of Gold". What I have read so far indicates I still have several steps to go in understanding this stuff. If I don't understand it, I should not be trying to help others. It is the blind leading the blind and it may not be a good idea.

__________________________________

I've been studying Artephius over and over (there is so much information here it's overwhelming). He warns that you should not expose yourself to the vapor form of this material as follows:

"Take heed, lest the spirit should exhale, lest it hurt the operator, to wit, lest it destroy the work, and induce many informities, as trouble, sadness, vexation, and discontent."

I believe this is a strong indication that direct ozonation of gold is not the right way to produce the material Artephius speaks of. Ozone is very good for a lot of things, but I don't think it is a good choice for diatomics.

He also says that the first stone should be citrine suspended in red. I've gotten this far, but then comes the kicker - there is a second stone that has to be made from silver by the same technology that makes the first stone. The white gold Artephius speaks of is made from silver not gold, and it is absolutely required to balance the gold. In other words, after a year of work I have only half the answer and that is probably the easy half.

This is not colloidal silver. I am familiar with that and have made several grades of that. None of the silver colloids is white.

_______________________________________

The electrochemical process is correct and I have made the first stone. There are two good descriptions of batteries in "In Pursuit of Gold" and both antimony jars and iron anodes have been found in Egypt and Ur (both are thought to be 3000-4000 years old), so I no longer have any doubt that the early Alchemists had batteries and understood electricity as the "water" of metals.

You may think this is easy but it is not. Artephius lived over 1000 years (and I believe that is true) and in all his travels he never met even one other person who could produce either stone. You can meet a lot of people in 1000 years. I don't think anyone can produce them both now either.

BTW nothing in Artephius has anything to do with rhodium, iridium, or any other metals except antimony, iron, silver, gold, and copper.

__________________________________

Artephius provides some guidance on providing these materials to others. He indicates that each adept should be able to provide for the needs of about 1000 non-adepts. I agree with him in this and have come to the conclusion that an adept may supply the material at a reasonable cost to those who support him. However, the provider *must* be an adept or everyone is getting ripped off. The product of a non-adept will not be up to snuff and may have no value at all. Neither Byron nor anyone else should try to provide this material for others unless they can 'see' that they have made the real material. Artephius (who has become a guide) indicates there will only be a few adepts and even fewer masters. If I am following him right, the master is required to produce the adepts and they in turn support him. The adepts then supply several spiritual and medicinal products to the general community and the community supports the adepts. It seems a very workable system in which all can be satisfied.

We will talk some more about this area if you wish. I'm getting pretty close to the second stone and may be able to make a balanced product soon. We'll see after that.

Another update

I recently spoke with a gentleman who has been using the electrochemical method (developed by J. McInnis) to produce various diatomic materials which correspond quite well with materials mentioned in THE SECRET BOOK by Artephius. He says that he is producing black, white and red materials from gold. He also says that he is producing a material which has the citrine (yellow/green) color in the red matrix. He has combined this citrine red material from gold with the diatomic form of silver to make an orange-yellow material which he believes is a near precursor to the Elixir described by Artephius.

This gentleman also reports several physical and mental effects from ingestion of the materials he has produced. The physical effects include the loss of 30 pounds of weight to where he is closer to ideal weight for his height, some of his gray hair is showing re-pigmentation, and he reports that his diet has improved on its own.

He has also noticed some mental or psychic effects. He says that the vagus nerve* literally carries (via microtubules) the diatomic material from the stomach to the rest of the nervous system. He says the gold changes the conductive and other properties of the nervous system so that there are increased energy flows in the system. He says that he can directly perceive this process.

He says that the increased energy flows up the spinal cord and can either continue up the spine into the head (which heats the cranium and causes unpleasant effects) or it can be redirected down the vagus system. This process has been described in other teachings along with techniques for redirecting the flow into the vagus system instead of into the brain. When the flow is directed into the vagus, it warms the hands and feet. If it is directed back to the stomach, it can provide nourishment. He has not tried long-term sustenance by this method, so the results of this remain unknown.

The gentleman has also experienced an opening of his third eye which is enabling him to "see" such things as the atomic structure of the materials that he is working with. He describes the red-gold material as a diatom with two closely coupled gold atoms which trap their electron flow between them. He says that this is what Artephius meant by stopping the flow of "the water of metals". The electrons are no longer available to flow between other atoms as in the normal metal structure, but are confined to the diatomic structure.

He says that the citrine-red material has the two atomic orbs joined into one spherical structure. He says that when you add the silver material you get three silver rings around the gold sphere.

The gentleman says that his yogic vision is still not totally reliable, so that he can not call on it at will. He has only been able to catch glimpses of these atomic structures and many details remain unclear. He says he has only a crude understanding of this process so far and expects that a lot more work will be required.

*Vagus nerve - Definition from MS Bookshelf 95: Either of the tenth and longest of the cranial nerves, passing through the neck and thorax into the abdomen and supplying sensation to part of the ear, the tongue, the larynx, and the pharynx, motor impulses to the vocal cords, and motor and secretory impulses to the abdominal and thoracic viscera. Also called pneumogastric nerve. [New Latin (nervous) vagus, wandering (nerve), from Latin.] The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, Third Edition copyright 1992 by Houghton Mifflin Company.