Santa Manna Oil

The procedure involves 3 different procedures

1. The GodanthpHaritala – Gypsum

2. The John Hudson Powder Method

3. Wet Precipitation

Wet Precipitation, Manna

IF you don’t know how to make a wet precipitation from Sea Salt then this formula is not for you right now. If you do then remove as much water as you can…make ahead.

When I make my wet precipitation I use Dead Sea Salt, Himalayan Salt, and Santa Manna which I make from local sea water. The more minerals you can add the better. I remove as much water as I can. You can vacuum filter or make this a few weeks in advance and decant the water off.

The John Hudson Powder Method

by Thomas Geckler

• 4 L of well water or spring water [John said to use well or spring water because “the minerals in the source material can attach to the minerals in the water. The HCL also does this; it holds the impurities.”

• 200 ml clear concentrated HCL (muriatic acid)

• 20-100 ml clear concentrated sulfuric acid (H2S04)

• 2-5 pounds of dirt or fine sand or limestone powder or dolomite or Azomite or ……..

1. Get a one 4 L and one container that can hold 4 liters of water. NO METAL. Recommend large beaker (borosilicate glass) and a five gallon heavy plastic utility bucket.

2. Add 200 ml HCl to the water (NEVER add the water to the acid; ALWAYS acid to water) and stir this very well. Use wood or plastic spoon, no metal.

3. Slowly add your finely powdered source material, a teaspoon at a time. There should be a slight reaction (bubbling, fizzing). More fizz is good, as it produces the best powder product. Add one teaspoon at a time until you have added all two pounds of the material.

4. Let settle until all solids are at the bottom of the bucket with the water-HCl mixture. Depending on source material this may take some time.

5. Filter the solution through at least three plys of unbleached coffee filters with a wad of white unscented toilet paper or paper towel in the bottom. Use a glass or HDPE plastic funnel (NO METAL). Filter more than once if needed until the solution is clear, no solids visible. Solution is usually clear, but can also be slightly tinted, clear green is desirable.

6. Pour this filtrate in to a large borosilicate flask/beaker/container and SLOWLY add 20-100 ml. of sulfuric acid. Stir well.

7. Heat slowly to 150 degrees Fahrenheit over a gas flame (preferably) or electric if necessary and stir frequently but not constantly until you see the powder form as the liquid evaporates. This may take all day, and it may form with no heating at all. Remember the fumes are from CONCENTRATED acid, so this must be done outdoors, in an exhaust hood, in front of a fan, etc. DO NOT do this in your kitchen even with an over the stove hood fan! DO NOT let it go dry. When you see that a good amount of precipitate has formed, stop heating, and stop stirring. Wear gloves, and be careful; hot acid is corrosive. Let it cool completely.

8. After the solution is settled and cooled, and add a few inches of VERY cold well or spring water to the precipitate and allow it to settle completely. Drain the supernatant (the clear fluid at the top) off and wash the precipitate with more cold well or spring water 6 times. John was exact here, no less, no more. Taste it. It should be only slightly salty, and not at all “tangy.”

9. Put the wet powder is a heatproof oven pan (recommend Pyrex glass, 9 x 13 pan for this size batch as you can spread it out). Place in oven (preferably gas, electric if necessary, not microwave) and bake at 150 degrees and allow powder to slowly and completely dry. Stir occasionally with wooden or plastic tools, no metal. This takes a long time. You can also dry in the sunlight, or use a combination.

10. Store dry in a cool, dark place.

NOTES:

John made a batch with dried Johnson grass and other plant sources have been used with success. Scale down the recipe if necessary: for 2 L of water add 100 ml of HCL and 10 ml of H2S04 with one pound of source material. More sulfuric acid (up to 100 ml. in a 4 L batch) yields better results depending on the batch and the source material. John encouraged people to play around with the recipe and see…

He recommended the finest grained white sand one could find, where nothing was growing at all in the desert. It must be crushed fine if it is not already fine. He recommended powdered limestone, which is easy to find, but made it from dirt dug in the yard and two pulverized bricks from Home Depot and got good results. The material should have a pH of 9.0-9.5, but anything over 7.0. Look for barren sand and soil with that pH, where no grass would grow.

Filtering: Though he had high tech filtering systems, John preferred unbleached coffee filters and cheap white unscented toilet paper to them as they did a great job removing the fine particulates from the solution and can tolerate the low pH.

Use only COLD (chilled in the refrigerator) well or spring water to wash or add to the precipitate. Chilling the solution in the refrigerator as it settles improves yields (over room temperature).

DRYING IN THE OVEN: As you dry the powder in an ovenproof glass dish at 150 degrees, the scent is like fresh rain, but do not stick your head in the oven to try to smell it (remember the acid!). The smell is one John associated with a successful batch.

When you are evaporating the solution over the burner stir occasionally until about ¾ of the liquid is gone. Then watch carefully and stir constantly the minute you see the white powder forming, with glass or plastic only (no wood or metal; hot acid!). When the crystals begin to form you must stir continuously until almost all the fluid is gone; then remove from the heat and allow to cool a bit.

The GodanthiHaritala – Gypsum Method

Materials needed: J. Hudson’s Powder, Aloe, burner and a high heat crucible, large stainless steel bowl or glass.

Take your aloe and remove the flesh. Cut it into small pieces and place 1/3 of it in large bowl. Smash this till it is as free of lumps as possible.

Take your JHP. (John Hudson Powder) and using a spoon or spatula mix in as much JHP as you can without the mixture getting to dry. You should be able to roll this like dough when it is at the right texture. If you make it to dry take everything out of your bowl and clean it. Take some of your reserve aloe and start over crumbling your dry mixture into the fresh aloe until you have dough consistency.

Make as many balls as you can about the size of a quarter.

Place these in a crucible and I use a blast burner but you can use a turkey burner and cook it as hot as you can. The balls should turn mostly white. Do not disturb them while cooking. Let cool and remove.

Put these into a mortar and pestle this to a fine powder. Repeat the process except this time use your powder you just made instead of fresh JHP using another 1/3 of aloe. Again mortar this until fine powder.

The Final Mixture

Mix a 1 to 1 ratio of the powder you just made and JHP. This gives you more yield. Set aside.

Take the rest of your aloe and some cold pressed coconut oil (about 2 to 3 cups) and blend until mixed well. If you wish to blend in the powder you may do so. I used a whip and some old fashioned elbow grease. Mix some wet precipitation into your oil mixture adding it slowly when you have a loose volume add some powder and tighten it up. Stay between the near dry and near wet range. Do this until you have used your powder and as much precipitation as you needed and still have a creamy product.

If your product breaks or separates, Take some cold coconut oil and slowly add your broken mixture into your fresh oil drop by drop while whipping. You can add more at a faster rate when you see it binding well.

Main Therapeutic Effect: Heals lungs, asthma, fevers, anaemia, tuberculosis, rickets, skin conditions, bruises, extremely dry skin and is a good source of calcium. Toxicity is low and I use as much as I want—when I want.

Thank you and Thank you Don Nance for the contribution of Godanthi Haritala - Gypsum

David VanDerryt