Bringing Natural Nutritional Energy to Life OrmusMinerals.com
From Gold Metal to White Powder in 5 Steps By J. Lello with thanks to B. Carroll, B. Carter, D. Nance, R. Talmage Materials you will need: Chemicals 99% Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) 35% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Table Salt (NaCl) Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) Distilled Water (H2O) Deuterium Oxide (D2O) (* Most U.S. gold coins are only 91% gold – Don’t Use Them)
Glassware 500 ml Flask (Florence or Erlenmeyer) 200ml & 500 ml Beakers 500 ml Graduated Cylinder Pyrex bowl (10 ~ 16 oz) Small Mason Jar Glass eyedropper Glass stirring rod Misc. Source of Heat (i.e., Single-Burner Propane Camp Stove) 3 oz. plastic drink cup, plastic spoon Crock Pot Hammer (Ball Peen is best) Anvil (or any large, smooth chunk of steel) Glass-encapsulated Candy Thermometer pH Test Paper or pH meter * * A temperature compensating pH meter like those available from Hanna Instruments and calibration solutions is very desirable. Some people may want to ingest the precipitate wash-water produced during the initial titrations, as it is reportedly rich in M-state gold micro-clusters. Other than gold, the wash water is primarily just salt water. If you intend to consume the precipitate wash-water, then you should use pure chemicals, pharmaceutical grade if possible. Gold is a fairly benign metal. If you use good quality distilled water, pure chemicals and pure gold metal to start with; and you do not allow any other metal or contaminants to come in contact with your solutions; you will not accidentally make anything toxic to ingest. I will not go into ingesting this material any further here, as it is the responsibility of the individual to weigh the potential benefits against the possible effects and decide for themselves how to go about it. If you are only concerned with producing the white powdered gold precipitate, and do not intend to ingest any of the wash-waters, you do not need to be quite as selective about the purity of your chemicals, within reason. A reasonably good quality 99% hydrochloric acid may be obtained from a professional plumbing supply house, sold as Lime, Rust & Scale Remover. “Sizzle®” brand [produced by Hercules Chemical Co., Passaic, NJ 07055 (800) 221-9330] is a fairly good choice. Cost is approximately $20 for one quart. I understand that another good brand of HCl is “Buckner’s,” but I have no contact information for this supplier. Similarly, your local Spa & Hot Tub dealer may provide you with a source of 27% Hydrogen Peroxide marketed as “Shock” water clarifier. Cost is approximately $15 for one gallon. Since 35% H2O2 is specified, you must use a little more when using only a 27% solution. Red Devil® brand Lye is reportedly almost as pure as laboratory grade sodium hydroxide, and a 16 oz. plastic jar of it may be obtained from any good hardware store for about $5. Ordinary Morton’s® Iodized table salt will work fine as a stabilizer. DO NOT USE SEA SALT. You’re rolling the dice when it comes to grocery-store distilled water – some of it is not even distilled, or at best – distilled poorly. If you get any strange-colored precipitates or solutions instead of those indicated, your water may be at fault. Try another source. Liquid Deuterium Oxide is available from Icon Isotopes, 19 Ox Bow Lane, Summit, NJ 07901 (800) 322-4266 <iconisot@idt.net> . A 50 gram bottle costs $35; a 100 gram bottle is $55.00. 2If you do not have access to laboratory glassware, Pyrex® cooking ware may be substituted in most cases. Do not use plastic. Use a GLASS stirring rod to mix and stir solutions. Use only a glass-encapsulated thermometer like a candy thermometer. Be sure to use only a Pyrex vessel when heating any liquids to avoid breakage and possible spillage of toxic and/or caustic chemicals. Be sure all glassware is CLEAN and not cracked.
An olive jar makes a good substitute for a graduated cylinder to settle out your precipitates. Make sure the glass vessel used to cook the lye solution in the crock pot is expendable – hot, concentrated lye solutions will partially dissolve the glass jar! Of course, this warning also applies to whatever beaker or jar that you use to titrate the final lye solution. DO NOT use your wife’s good crock pot for this procedure, as some of the lye solution will invariably seep out of the mason jar and etch the inside of the crock pot. Be Careful! Most of these chemicals are dangerous, toxic, corrosive and caustic. They are poisonous if ingested, and can cause severe chemical burns if they come in contact with your bare skin, eyes or mucous membranes. Always wear rubber or plastic gloves and good quality goggles when working with caustic chemicals. It’s a good idea to keep a jug or bowl of fresh water, some baking soda and some vinegar handy when working with lye & hydrochloric acid in case of splashes or spills. Use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to neutralize any spilled hydrochloric acid; use vinegar to neutralize any spilled lye solution. Even when heavily diluted, lye makes your skin VERY slippery. Be sure to always hold glass containers from under the BOTTOM, in case of any lye spillages. During parts of the procedure detailed below, chlorine gas is generated. Chlorine
gas is a deadly poison. Always work in a well-ventilated area, or under a fume hood or an exhaust
fan. In order to make a proper alchemical dissolution of gold, you must first beat the gold into submission. Something happens to the molecular structure of the gold when you beat it, and it will NOT dissolve properly if you skip this step. My good friend Don Nance (Ocean Alchemy) once told me – “If you want to make a heavenly solution, you’ve got to beat the hell out of that gold!” Whether you start with gold wire, gold sheet or a gold coin, you must first hammer it out into a very thin, flat sheet before you can dissolve it.
This step is not necessary if using gold leaf, as gold leaf is made by repeatedly beating gold into very thin sheets. It is for this reason I would not recommend using gold leaf, because I think it is important for YOU to be the one doing the beating, and by doing so, putting a little of your “self” into the operation. Remember – this is not your standard everyday chemistry we are dealing with here – in the past this was a very sacred process. As an example, I started with a 5 gram Credit Suisse which is about the size of a very small postage stamp. 45 minutes later, it was about the size of a credit card when I got done hammering it out. After you hammer the gold out nice and thin, it may be easily cut into confetti-like little chunks with a good pair of scissors. Cut it into pieces as small as you can possibly make them and place them all into a 500 ml flask or equivalent. It’s a good idea to rinse the cut flakes with boiling water to remove any dirt, oils or foreign debris that may have made its way onto the gold flakes during the hammering or cutting processes. A preliminary wash with a little dilute (40%) hydrochloric acid is not a bad idea either. Make a saturated solution* of table salt in hot distilled water in a small glass jar (*saturated means no more salt will dissolve into it). Put about ¾ of an eyedropper-full of saturated salt solution (NaCl) into the flask of gold flakes. Add 100 ml distilled water. Swirl the flask around vigorously until all the salt water and distilled water are well mixed. Let the flask sit for a few minutes to let any reaction complete. Add 10 ml 35% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Note: If you’re using only a 27% H2O2 solution, add 15 ml instead. Once again, swirl the flask around a little to mix up the ingredients well and let it sit for a few minutes. Next, add 100 ml 40% hydrochloric acid (HCl) and swirl some more. Make sure you mix the ingredients in exactly this order. If you add the salt last, it may not dissolve properly. The solution will remain clear for a few minutes, and then turn a beautiful honey-gold color as shown in the photograph below. The golden color indicates that the gold is still above the 32 atom cluster size of metallic gold. If you look closely at the surface of the gold flakes, you may see bubbles start to form on them. This may take some time to start happening. This gold color will gradually fade and give way to a cloudy, light-greenish-yellow color. Cover the flask with the 3 oz. paper cup and place in a warm, dark place where the fumes will not bother anybody and the mixture cannot be spilled. For best results, you should periodically swirl the flask around a little to mix things up about every 4 to 6 hours. If you are serious about making gold precipitate and intend to make many batches, a handy device can be fabricated from an old record player (anybody remember records?) by drilling a few holes into the plastic turntable and fabricating clamps from coat hanger wire as shown in the photo below.
Block up one side of the turntable so that it is sitting unevenly and run it at 33-1/3 rpm to provide a continuous, gentle sloshing motion to agitate your solution(s). Add about 3 ml more H2O2 every 4 – 6 hours and swirl well. Continue this procedure for at least 3 days. The longer you let it go, the more gold you will dissolve and the better yield you will get. Note: You may see a yellow-white precipitate floating in your flask at the end of the first day. This is NOT what we are looking for – just shake up the flask and it will disperse. I have not analyzed any of it, but I believe it is just some of the salt in the solution precipitating out. After sufficient gold has dissolved, the liquid will now be a sort of cloudy greenish-yellow color, as shown in the photo below, indicating the solution now contains gold clusters of mixed sizes. Titrating the Preliminary Solution Prepare a stock solution of dilute NaOH by placing 2 teaspoons of lye into a quart of water in a glass jar and stirring well. Use only a glass or plastic spoon, NOT METAL. BE CAREFUL!!! Lye will cause severe chemical burns and will BLIND YOU if you splash it in your eyes. Always wear rubber or plastic gloves and good-quality protective eyewear when working with corrosive chemicals. Pour the dissolved gold solution out of the flask into a small Pyrex bowl (a 4” custard dish works well for this) leaving the undissolved gold flakes behind. Note: The dish may become permanently stained purple afterwards, as a result of the “tunneling” effect of M-state materials. Rinse the left-over gold flakes with about 10 ml of distilled water, swirling the flask around well to get all of the acid solution out of the flask and add this rinse to the Pyrex dish also. Heat the bowl slowly to 50C in a water bath over a low gas flame. If you intend to ingest the wash-water, make sure not to heat past 50C or much of your M-state material will be lost to evaporation. This is part of the function of the salt in the mixture – to prevent the loss of M-state due to evaporation. If you see steam rising up off of your solution, IT IS TOO HOT and you are losing M-state material into the air. An interesting aside is that 50C (approximately 121F) is supposedly the temperature of the sun in the Egyptian desert, where the ancients presumably did their work. Further dilute the lye solution about 50/50 in a beaker with distilled H2O. VERY SLOWLY add the dilute NaOH to your gold solution with a glass eyedropper, at a rate of approximately one drop every 30 seconds, while stirring vigorously with a glass stirring rod. This will be a very time-consuming and tedious process that can take hours, and may be done much more easily if you rig up some kind of automatic stirring device, and an automatic titrating device to slowly drip the lye solution. I will leave this up to the imagination of the individual as to how to get this accomplished, but one example is shown below.
I used a small 12 volt gear-reduction motor with a slow-speed shaft that just happened to fit perfectly inside a piece of ¼ inch glass tubing which I bent and sealed shut at one end with a small propane torch. I heated and stretched another piece of glass tubing to a fine needle-point and coupled it to a 200 ml plastic syringe with a length of clear vinyl hose to use as an automatic dropper. Whatever you decide to rig up, just be sure to use something glass to stir the solution with. As you continue to add NaOH, the greenish-yellow color will go away, and the solution will clarify somewhat and perhaps get an almost steel-gray cast to it. Once the solution starts clearing up, you must begin to pay VERY close attention to the color and clarity of it. Periodically check the pH of the solution by dripping some from the glass stirring rod onto a small piece of pH test paper. At first the paper will turn a bright red indicating the solution is still very acidic. As you approach neutrality, the paper will hardly appear to change color at all, it will just get wetted. Eventually the paper will start to turn yellowish green or green. If you get to green, and you still have no precipitate – something is wrong. Note: To conserve on your pH test paper, cut the test strips into small squares, about six or eight per strip. At first, you will go through a lot of pH paper – after a while, you should become familiar with the changes in color that the solution goes through and will not use so much. When you get to the point that the solution is fairly clear, you will begin to see just a slight flash of purple as each NaOH droplet hits your solution. When you get to this point, stop and dilute your NaOH solution 10:1 before continuing titration. SLOW is the key here, folks – the slower, the better. If you bring the pH up too rapidly, you will end up with a precipitate that looks pretty much like grape Kool-Aid, if you titrate slowly enough, I have even seen a light pinkish-colored precipitate form. The more slowly you titrate, the smaller the clusters of gold that will form. [Smaller clusters will help you to shorten one of the later steps by several days or more, so go slow.] At some point after the pH tests neutral, the solution will begin to turn a pinkish-purple color and get cloudy. Continue adding NaOH until the whole solution appears cloudy and the pH paper is a greenish color. If you are lucky enough to own a pH meter, this will be at about pH 8.5. If you get too careless and titrate too quickly, the solution may turn a dark blue – if this happens, immediately dump in about a spoonful or two of 15% HCl to knock the pH back down and try it again. I would not recommend ingesting the top water of that particular batch if this happens – just save the precipitate and start another batch and consider it a lesson learned. Most of the time you will end up with a reddish-brown, or purplish-brown precip, and the water will have an almost iridescent appearance to it, and will appear to be a different color depending on how the light strikes it. Try shining a small but powerful flashlight like a MagLite on it. If you do it right, nice and slow, it makes some pretty amazing looking stuff. This is what you want to shoot for if you intend to ingest the wash water, although the purple will work just fine if all you want to do is use it to make the white powder. When the pH reaches 8.5 (pH paper turns light green), pour the solution into a 300 ml graduated cylinder, or any tall, slender container (multiple test tubes will work). Allow the precipitate to settle out of the solution, and any remaining H2O2 to gas off (no more bubbles present). You must repeat this procedure 7 or eight times, until you have obtained a
significant quantity of the red/purple precipitate to proceed to the next phase of the process.
When you have accumulated a sufficient quantity of the red/purple precipitate suspended in distilled water, place it into a small mason jar along with some almost-saturated NaOH solution. Use a ratio of one part precipitate in water to 3 parts NaOH solution. Place the Mason jar into a pan of boiling water to bring it up to temperature. When the solution is fairly hot, place a double layer of polyethylene plastic (sandwich bag) over the mouth of the container, and screw the top on very tightly. Shake the jar gently with a side-to-side motion to mix the contents well. Place the sealed Mason jar into a crock-pot and fill the crock pot with water to just below the neck of the Mason jar. You may want to weight the jar down somehow to keep it from floating around. Place the cover on the crock-pot and heat until the water just starts to boil and then back off a hair. You want to keep it at just about a simmer. Some crock-pots only have a simple Hi-Med-Lo control rather than an infinitely variable temperature control. If this is the case, a light-dimmer mounted in a 2x4 electrical box and inserted into one leg of an extension cord makes a convenient way to regulate the temperature. Leave the Mason jar to cook for up to 3 weeks,
agitating the contents once a day. You will need to add water to the crock pot periodically as it will
slowly boil away. Keep the level of the water at or above the level of the solution inside the Mason
jar. If you start with very small clusters of gold, then the time needed in the
crock pot is less, bigger clusters require more time to break down. After 3 weeks, remove the Mason jar from the crock pot and allow it to cool off before you attempt to open it, or you will lose some material to evaporation Cover the jar with a heavy cloth or towel as you open it, to avoid any lye spraying out in case pressure has built up. The solution will be cloudy and sort of grayish in color. Pour the solution into a 500 ml beaker and dilute with distilled water up to a volume of about 200 ml. Prepare an initial solution of diluted HCl by mixing one part HCl to 4 parts distilled water. Heat the solution to about 50C and titrate it exactly as you did in the first part of the process, VERY, VERY SLOWLY, one drop at a time until you get down to a pH of about 12. Then switch to an even weaker dilution, 1 part HCl to 7 parts distilled water. Continue titrating until the solution clouds up and reaches a pH of 7.0. You will probably start getting precipitate long before you get to pH 7.0. Continue to titrate until the pH reads 7.0 and remains there for over one day. Periodic adjustment of the pH may be required. The pH should be kept as close as possible to 7.0, this is very important and if you have studied the Hudson patient process and lectures, you will know that this is the point that the sodium separates from the gold atoms and the Hydrogen atom is attached. This procedure is very time-consuming. It can take days to complete. It is OK to stop for the day and continue on the next morning; in fact this is preferable - as it allows the pH of the solution to stabilize. The more slowly you go about this, the better your chances at success. The precipitate will be white in color, and very fluffy-looking with a cotton-like appearance, as shown in the photo below.
This should be HAu in water. If it is off-white or grayish, this indicates contaminates or only a partial conversion to HAu in water. If it is at all brown, you need to boil for longer in the lye solution because you still have di-atoms of gold present. Any other color indicates larger cluster sizes of gold atoms present. It is very light, and takes a long time to settle out of solution, maybe days. Pour the liquid and precipitate into a graduated cylinder, or any tall, thin glass container to allow the precipitate to settle out. When the precipitate has completely settled, use a siphon hose (aquarium tubing) or a syringe to take off the top water, being very careful not to roil up the precipitate. Add more distilled water and shake well, and let the precipitate settle again. It is advisable to wash with the precipitate with very large quantities of water in relation to your precipitate volume. Wash it until there is no trace of salty taste left in the water. This appears to be a very key step as any salt left in the solution can cause the final reaction to fail. It may be necessary to wash the precipitate this way over 12 times in order to obtain very low levels of salt left over in the solution. After removing most of the top water the final time, place the precipitate and the remaining water into a 500 ml beaker and add an eyedropper squirt of deuterium oxide. Heat the solution to about 90C, just before boiling, while stirring with a glass rod. The solution should become completely clear. If it does not clear up completely, add a little more deuterium and continue until it does. You now possess the ORME gold in a water-based solution and can dry it for the white powder of gold or consume it as is. |
Free eBook on Ormus
Complete the
form below
to receive a
FREE eBook on Ormus